Daniel Chandranayagam

Posts Tagged ‘kl travel blog’

Langkawi – Days 4 and 5

In Travel on 10/12/2008 at 10:15

On our penultimate day in Langkawi, we decided to head up to the Crocodile Farm. Far less scary than the snake sanctuary, I had thought. Finding the place, like the snake sanctuary, was not as easy as one expected. But the drive was scenic and enjoyable. When we finally did reach the croc farm, we were pleasantly surprised by the openness about the place.

Unfortunately, the crocs themselves looked a little sad. Some of them had lumps on their bodies and toes (claws?).

Read the rest of this entry »

Langkawi – Day 3

In Travel on 09/12/2008 at 10:15

The third day on Langkawi was quite a restful day. We decided to head down to a Chinese restaurant on the outskirts of Kuah town, near the vegetarian restaurant where we had lunch the day before. We then decided to take a drive down to the south-west tip towards Pantai Chenang.

The ride was pretty and definitely far more interesting than our usual dual carriageway to Kuah from the hotel. The passed by a naval camp, I think, which was really nicely done, hardly looked like a naval camp. And again I marvelled at the roads! They were so slick and smooth with not a bump, not a blemish or hole! I can’t understand why this is the case, when roads in Kuala Lumpur and Petaling Jaya (actually chunks of Selangor) are cratered like the moon’s surface.

Within about 20 minutes, we were at Pantai Chenang. My friend mentioned that it was a lot like a ’sanitized’ version of Phuket. We had no difficulty finding the Underwater World. Even though this was probably the most crowded we had seen Langkawi (aside from Kuah Town and the jetty), we even managed to get a parking spot immediately. We paid our RM28 each, and headed in. Read the rest of this entry »

Langkawi – Day 2

In Travel on 07/12/2008 at 12:15

This was one relaxing holiday, and I honestly needed it. I got up on the second day around lunch time, then we headed down to town for some lunch. We ended up in a vegetarian restaurant on the outskirts of Kuah. After lunch, we were herded to the shop next door by the restaurant, as she perhaps felt we needed a good tour of Langkawi or some such. We listened with interest (at first) at the tours available.

Honestly, I would have loved to have gone to Pulau Dayang Bunting, the second largest island in the Langkawi archipelago. The photos looked super spooky and cool, plus there’s a fairy tale involved. What’s not to like?

On Pulau Dayang Bunting is the lake of the Pregnant Maiden. Believed to be guarded by a white crocodile, the waters of the lake is said to bring good luck and fertility to bathers. The island is said to be where Mat Teja, sorcerous genie was ensnared by the charms of Mambang Sari, a faerie princess. To win her affection, Mat Teja procured mermaid’s tears and smeared them on his face on the advice of a wise man, Tok Diang.

So they fell in love and Mambang Sari was soon preggers. However, the baby died in its first week. Distraught, Mambang Sari entrusted the waters of Tasik Dayang Bunting with the corpse of the child and returned to her celestial abode. The corpse turned into a white crocodile, still resides in the waters and appears to those who are upright and pious. Cool no? Read the rest of this entry »

Langkawi – Day 1

In Travel on 06/12/2008 at 12:15

I haven’t stepped on to Langkawi for almost ten years. My first visit was when Dr. M just designated the island as a duty free haven. Things were very different in the early 90s. Kuah Town was just fishing village, with one row (at the most two rows, if memory serves me right) of old-skool shop houses. Now, things are very different.

courtesy of Travel Malaysia Guide

Read the rest of this entry »

Round and About Kuala Lumpur

In Travel on 20/07/2008 at 15:30
I have been really busy recently, so I haven’t had much time to go about town, or take photos. My other blog on employment is also taking up a lot of my time, and is something I really would like to focus on. So the Klang Valley Travel blog will remain a purely hobby blog, but I do promise to update it as much as I can.

Thanks for your support over the years. Please do contact me on the links on the left, or visit my other blog.

In the meantime, the sights and sounds of KL.

Foreign basker in KLCC underground LRT station

Foreign basker in KLCC underground LRT station being told to refrain from basking
Hindraf posters before the rally in 2007 which ended in arrests and detention

Fire drill along Jalan Ampang

National Heritage

Pre-Elections


Public Transport


Batu Caves

Oop Noorth Again!

In Travel on 11/06/2008 at 02:00

One hot weekend in May, I decided I needed to get away from the smouldering dusty atmosphere of KL. For a day trip, the closest thing was Bukit Tinggi, unfortunately. So a friend and I headed there for a day’s escape.

The road up was a different than the last time. They closed off the more direct route up, and we had to pass the horse stables and the Berjaya Resort structure before heading down to Colmare De Tropicale. Sigh… even the name trips oddly off my tongue. My friend’s reaction when he saw the little ‘village’ was “Why like that???”. My response was, “I did say it was cheesy!”

Saying that, I do believe that everyone Malaysian should go up to Colmar De Tropicaliente at least once in their life. I cannot believe anyone would think the painted-on bricks and wood of the faux European cottages can be anything close to the original French Colmar. And to make the make-believe even less make-believe, when we arrived, there was a loud (and I mean loud echoing-across-the-mountains kind of loud) dance performance. Two men and two ladies (maybe more, the loud music made my eyes water, so I’m not sure what I witnessed) were cavorting in Arabian Nights kind of outfits in the village centre to Britney Spears.

Yes… the Arabian Nights performed with American music in a French Village on a Malaysia Hill. What will they think of next?

Anyway, we escaped up the lift (!) of the ‘village’ belfry (I can’t help but smile when I write this!). The noise there was more tolerable, and we could have a decent conversation. And it was cooler and windier as well. From the belfry, you could see the pink faux sandstone castle parking lot. At any moment, I was expecting to see people dressed as ’sang kancil’ or ‘Puteri Gunung Ledang’ or something come cavorting out of the pinkness. It really was a surreal afternoon.

The noise subsided and we walked down the belfry tower to get some coffee. As soon as we were on ground level, the music began again, so we had to find the cafe farthest from the noise. This was not easy considering the level of noise and the smallness of Colmar du Tropicana. But we still managed to have a decent coffee, albeit overpriced beyond Starbucks and nearly as good (strange, considering how Starbucks and Colmar are both owned by Berjaya).

Anyway, amused and sated of the Arabic French Malaysian gala, we went back to the parking lot to head to upwards to the Japanese gardens. I told my friend that no matter what happened, we needed to start with Colmar. Start with the worst, that’s my theory. The Japanese Gardens is totally sublime compared to the twilight-zone-like experience of Colmar. And the atmosphere there, although touristy, was not as instrusively noisy. Truth to tell, I really enjoy the Japanese Gardens.

Then we headed down to the Botanical Gardens. It was getting close to early evening, and since we wanted to see the rabbits, we decided not to explore the Botanical Gardens too deeply, especially since it was resting on the fringes of the jungle. Twilight + Jungle = not good, IMHO.

So down to the rabbits we went. I must admit, this was by far the best of the whole Bukit Tinggi experience that day. The rabbits were cool, although visitors tend to frighten them more than anything, especially the kids who chased after the rabbits. Rabbit are such fragile animals, you can’t go chasing them like some clumsy giant. It’s unlikely you’ll catch them anyway.

We sadly found one poor dead rabbit. The staff were quite blase, saying that at least one dies a day (ack!). There were also two puppies playing in the rabbit maternity hutch. The little girly puppy was adorable. After awhile, I decided to see the deers and donkeys (or horses?). Smelly but cute.

On the way back from Bukit Tinggi, on a whim, we decided to stop by Batu Caves. And on a whim, I climbed all the way to the top. I was short of breath at the top, but… I don’t understand the big deal. People make it sound like climbing Batu Caves is So Hard! In fact, when I reached the top, I expected more steps within the cave, equivalent to those on the exterior. None, but a short flight in the deepest recess. Hmmm…

Then we had excellent Indian vegetarian food, great end to a great afternoon!

Na Tuk

In Travel on 11/05/2008 at 11:15

 

Walking down the streets of Kuala Lumpur, it’s hard to miss little red shrines on street corners, or facing a building. Although more subtly placed than the hindu/buddhist shrines of Bangkok, it’s easier to spot them, as they stand out from the shrubs or enclosures, being painted vermillion.
I’ve always wondered which gods are placed in these little huts, although some of them aren’t so little (there are some in hotels which are gigantic!). After asking around, i found that these shrines aren’t really for a god or gods, but really a spirit. Called ‘Na Tuk Kong’, ‘Na Du Gong’, or ‘Da Tok Kong’, it is said that the spirit is a guardian spirit, possibly a remnant of nature worship. I was told that so long as someone saw a strange man (wherever he might appear, for example, even in a garden of a home), a shrine would be built for the spirit.
Apparently, the spirit resides in trees, caves, riversides and in rock formations. I was told that even Malays and Indians used to worship the Na Tuk. In Malay, he was called ‘penunggu’. Apparently though, this was considered ‘unIslamic’, and therefore the worship of this earth spirit was halted.
Another friend told me that a Na Tuk can be invited to reside in the compound of a family home for protection and good fortune. According to wikipedia, it is never invited into a home. I wonder why… I also wonder why there is no English writing on this interesting little piece of Malaysian culture, aside from wikipedia.

Dirty Sticky Stalls / The Writer In Me

In Travel on 12/04/2008 at 14:30
This post has two titles. Soon, you’ll understand why.

While doing some cleaning spring cleaning on my computer, I discovered some unused photographs that I took for a particular article several years back. Firstly though, I do not hold myself out to be a photographer. I have to admit, however, that I did learn a lot during my series with Caecar Chong on iconic buildings. But I seemed to have un-learnt everything I learnt during that time.

In any case, I took the photos for the article reluctantly. This is mainly because my camera was getting old (and I’m still using the same camera, believe it or not – did I already mention that I’m not a photographer?) and my heart honestly wasn’t in it. Not photography and not writing for this particular magazine. But please don’t misunderstand, the work with that magazine helped me a lot, and it certainly did boost up my CV. I would also happily work for that magazine again, provided there are certain changes since I last contributed.

Anyway, rather than go into the photos (which reveal how clean our stalls are), let’s talk about writing and publishing. This is something a lot of people seem to be asking me about. Their reasons for asking are varied, whether it be because they are fresh grads, wanting to move into the industry, or whether it be because they would love to get published themselves, or whether because their tired of their current jobs and want something new.

First, let me say that writing is a job. It’s a job like any other job, and any glamour or mystery surrounding the job is sadly untrue. You have bosses or clients, they are as nice or as demanding as bosses and clients in other industries, and you have to work hard, just as in any kind of work you might be doing.

Secondly, it doesn’t pay well. An uncle of mine keeps on encouraging me to do copy writing. Admittedly, that pays better, and I do do copy writing work now and again. Copy writing of itself can be quite fun, and I’ve had some fantastic clients too (esp the folk at the STB, who have been nothing but great during my time with them). This notwithstanding, for me, I need to be really interested in the client’s business or work if I do copy writing for the medium- or long-term. Short projects are fine though… But back to what I was saying, writing of itself does not pay well, unless you’re JK Rowling, so you need to have other kinds of work you can do, and from which you can derive income.

Thirdly, it’s something you can learn. A lot of people go, “Oh, but writing is so personal, I’m so scared to let people read,” in which case I’d believe that person is never going to get their work published. Also, there’s a learning curve, so be prepared for criticism and embarressment during the first year (unless you’re a straight-out reporter, in which case, the learning process should be faster). Being prepared for criticism is vital. I remember when my initial work was sliced and diced, and it felt like my heart was being ripped from my chest, and I went home with an empty feeling. And I think a lot of people, especially those with a passion for writing, will find this to be true. We feel all warm and fuzzy when people say nice things, but we get a little annoyed or hurt or indignant when something unkind is said about the writing. So be warned. Don’t cry like a baby (something I’ve witnessed with young writers and interns at my former employment), which is hardly ‘professional’.

Fourthly, it can be very rewarding. Now, this factor, just one word, ‘Rewarding’, surpasses the first three factors.

Fifthly, if you’re a writer, and you discover that you’re a writer, you won’t ever stop writing.

So, there you go. Discovering these photos was good. It reminded me of some part of ‘paying my dues’. Now, I don’t have to eat at dirty stalls so much anymore. Thank God!

Raise Your Flag [higher higher]

In Travel on 09/03/2008 at 23:03

 


Well, it’s the day after the elections. I missed the boat, sort of, because it would have been good to have taken photos of all the war of flags and posters and whatnot. But anyway, I did manage to catch some on the day of elections and today. 

Truth to tell, the whole nation is reeling. I don’t think anyone expected the election results, or the massive losses experienced by the National Coalition. I do feel bad for a few BN candidates, some of whom I thought should have won. Of course, Samy Vellu should have stepped down ages ago, and I guess the voters felt the same.

Of course, mainstream media came up with the usual ‘drama’ non-objective headlines. How long can the mainstream newspapers continue to insult the intelligence of the people? Sigh

Anyway, voting yesterday was great. I took along a book (I was thinking of my I-Pod too, but decided not to). I also had aMalibu Dream from Coffee Bean, my favourite, yum! It took me less than ten minutes: go to the computer man, get my room number, go to the room, wait about five minutes, go in, take my voting paper thingies, X on Parliamentarian, X on state assembly person, then back home.

Outside, there were two massive BN booths, taking up the little park outside the polling centre. Motorbike riders with massive (and dangerous-looking) flags flitted to and fro. Just outside 7-Eleven was a smaller DAP booth, with a man bearing a huge Rocket flag, giving drivers a thumbs-up as they drive. Quite fun, all in all.

We stayed up late, watching the news, refreshing the news websites, getting phone calls and text messages. And the astounding results!

Today, the whole of PJ and KL has been quiet. I think people are staying in, just in case, you know… What’s more, some parts of KL have the BN flags removed already. Walking around Dataran Merdeka, I found none, except some chucked on the ground…


But Loke Yew had the flags up and flying.


And now, we wait for tomorrow.


Poems From The Underground

In Travel on 10/02/2008 at 13:31
Okay, so Malaysia doesn’t really have an underground. But we do have the LRT, and these rhymes are inspired by my recent commutes. Firstly though, poetry is not my genre sniff sniff. So if the rhymes and limericks offend you, don’t read them. 

Impatience
Oh joyous joyous LRT!
You take me where I should be!
Faster faster! For I am late!
Won’t be in time at this rate!

 

Fecundity
The LRT is so rich with smell,
Sublime reeks right from hell;
From armpits to shoes,
Oh so hard to tell whose,
Thank God, I’m saved by the bell!

 

Rush Hour
On the LRT, I sway and swing!
Hands are free, I hold not a thing!
Leaky AC pours on my head!
Quickly, get me home to my bed!

 

Berbudi Bahasa
“Aren’t we polite!” the sign screams,
Yet old people totter and lean!
Pregnant ladies still stand,
No one gives them a hand,
The sign should read, “Aren’t we mean!”

 

The Silly Pouty Man Who Got Up On Sentral
“I want to sit,” his face says, 
As he pushes the crowd from his way,

He sits his arse down,
Yet still with a frown,
I wonder who else had a bad day?

Musings On The LRT
I sometimes wonder,
Why our transport sucks so;
Was it an honest blunder?
Didn’t we really know?

 

 

 

Mooching Around In Malacca (Part 1)

In Travel on 06/12/2007 at 01:05
My personal experiences with Malacca has always been a little off-kilter for a Malaysian, I think. I mean, I learnt all about it in school, all about how Parameswara came over and set up camp on the peninsular, and all that. And how Hang Li Poh and friends came down from China as a gift. And how the Hangs (ie Hang Jebat and Hang Tuah) protected the little kingdom etc. And how the Portuguese came, then the Dutch, then the British etc. 

However, I have never felt a personal desire to explore the town. When I was younger, really young, I must have visited the place, and my impression was that it was a little messy. During my undergraduate years, we did a visit to Malacca as guests of the UKM law faculty (yes, I’m a law grad), and I remembered that the town had been ‘Central Market’-fied, all pink and pastel colours. Again, I must have left with an impression that the place was a little bit messy and congested.

When a friend asked me to keep him company down to Malacca for a wedding, I agreed to go. I was in dire need of a holiday, and I was interested to see if the place had changed any since I had been there last.

It was to my surprise that Malacca wasn’t congested. Well, perhaps it could have been a weekend when traffic wasn’t bad, but I think it’s likely also because Malacca now has a one-way system practically throughout the entire city. For those of you thinking to yourself that the one-way system has been in practice for ages, then it goes to show how often I head down to Malacca!

Anyway, we headed down after dinner one Friday evening, and reached Malacca after eleven pm. As with all kinds of travel, I was upbeat, even though tremendously tired. We followed the hotel receptionist’s instructions and found the hotel easily enough, basically turn into Malacca off the North-South highway and follow the road all the way down.

After chucking our stuff in our room (which was fair for the price we were paying – or so I thought), we headed out to get something to eat. Of course, finding something to eat wasn’t that easy. What struck me was that the roads were broad and clean, motorists actually paid heed to traffic lights, there was a cool evening sea breeze with hardly any dust or pollution (compared to KL), and that it was really quite pleasant.

Eventually, we found a food court stall-type place to eat. I can’t remember what I ate, but I remember it was a good experience, just the ambience, the coolness, the lack of density, which is something you get in a lot of night eateries anywhere in KL on a Friday night. I must be getting old…

Anyway, the next day was pretty good. I had a relaxing morning, reading a book called “Pontianak – With Survival Guide”. I have to say, visiting such a historical town, and reading the book, occasionally gave me the shivers. But the book wasn’t all that scary, and as a writer and editor, I was appalled at the number of grammatical mistakes, almost every story had one or two! Don’t people sub-edit and copy edit before publication?

Anyway, we headed down to town in the afternoon, looking for lunch. What did we find? Only Chicken Rice Balls! Like… What???? Everywhere, all they seemed to serve in the old quarters of Malacca were balls of chicken rice! Everywhere! So guess what my lunch was that day? And… my verdict = overrated.

But the old part of Malacca really is nice. It just has so much character and personality. I especially love the old temples and mosques and shrines and cemeteries. Funnily enough, what spooked me out the most were those small tiny shoes to bind your feet! Ugh!!

Of course, I was kicking myself for having forgotten my camera, hence these not-so-clear pictures from my Sony Ericsson K300…

Then came the evening, and I got hoisted for the wedding too. Good wedding, and the food was good. After dinner, I joined friends down in old town again, but this time at two (apparently famous) karaoke/live band pubs. It was really good fun, and reminded me a bit of Madrid or Sohon, London in the summer. But after all that wine and beer, it took us two whole hours to get back to the hotel… Silly one way system!

Working on public holidays…

In Travel on 01/10/2007 at 01:45
While Malaysia celebrated its 50th Jubilee recently, I was out working. I was doing an article on a few vegetarian food stalls at which I ate regularly. Writing about them was easy enough, but their addresses weren’t at my fingertips. So we had to drive out to these stalls, and because of my hectic schedule, Merdeka was the only day available. Thankfully, Eddy agreed to come with me. Actually, he drove. 

First stop was Puchong, at stalls/shops we usually eat. Traffic was amazingly good, and the shop was unsurprisingly closed. This is near the Sutramas Apartments. We mooched around, took a photo or two for the blog. It’s interesting that there’s a ‘gated’ neighbourhood nearby, but the entrance/exit is always open for anyone to go in (pic above). Anyway, and then headed down to Pusat Bandar Puchong, another favourite haunt (pic below).

Now, this is an interesting part of Puchong. The food court in itself is quite interesting, with my favourite pink squidgy cake (I have no idea what it’s called, but it’s often used for praying). There’s a kopitiam further down, close to the doctor’s. And the place is filled with Chinese-0nly speaking Chinese, Indonesians, Bangladeshis, Burmese, and a host of not-really-Malaysians. Then we headed to Sunway.

There’s not much to say about Sunway (pic above).

The next stop was SS3 in PJ. Now this is an interesting food stall. It’s run by a little old lady & a little old man, who are surly and friendly at the same time. It’s hard to explain, but you need to go experience it for yourselves. Behind the shops, the famous football field. The area was famous for being the final stop for the Bas Mini 33. It was an awfully hot day, and the next stop was Taman Megah (some people call it ‘Kelana Jaya’ because the Kelana Jaya LRT station is nearby, but honestly, it isn’t).

Ming Tien, the first ‘cool’ food court with wifi & VIP rooms, is here. The Taman Megah market (above) was also quite famous in its time, but not quite nowadays. The sun, the heat, the dryness, compelled Eddy & I to head to Secret Recipe (below).

Now, Secret Recipe is an underrated eatery. The cakes & coffee are cheaper, and the former is usually better than at any other coffee/cafe place. Eddy & I spent a good afternoon chat here, and cooled down a bit from the blazing dry sun.

We then headed to Bangsar, near TMC. Nothing interesting there to take photos of, the place was understandably dead. So we headed to Brickfields, one of my favourite places in KL. Flags were flying for the celebration of our Independence (pic above). Wish I could have got a better picture. We needed to get to Jalan Thambypillai, then Eddy wanted to walk around the Buddhist Temple, near the Temple of Fine Arts.

Brickfields is remarkable for the number of religious places of worship. The Buddhist temple, the many Hindu temples, three churches (including a Syrian Orthodox church!).

The Temple of Fine Arts

Catch the real write-up in Zero Degrees this month (October)!

Fairy Tale in KL

In Travel on 31/08/2007 at 22:39
I’m getting old. I took a bunch of photos and saved them on my computer for my blog. Now, quite some time later, I look at those photos, and have no idea whatsoever when I took them, and I don’t even know where some of them are. So… I’m going to make up a fictional narrative to go with them. Here goes…

There was once a young prince called Alonzo, who had lived all his life in the royal palace within the royal city, called “Estuary-Upon-Mud”. The young prince was extremely fond of walking through the palace and peering through the windows, looking out on his father’s subjects and the vast lands, one day to be his.


The Royal Palace of Estuary-Upon-Mud
It came to pass that young prince Alonzo looked out of his window one bright morning, and saw a beautiful gazelle running through the royal city. Such a beautiful and noble creature he had never seen before in his life. The young prince was curious, as the gazelle appeared afraid of something. His royal highness ran from window to window, watching the gazelle’s flight in the streets of Estuary-Upon-Mud. Finally, he saw the gazelle run into an old but beautiful cottage, called Culture Cottage, just a street away from the Royal Palace.


Culture Cottage

Prince Alonzo saw the graceful gazelle run into the original portion of Culture Cottage. He sat there for a long time, watching intently out the window, but the gazelle did not re-appear. Suddenly, an idea came upon the young prince. He called one of his most trusted viziers, saying, “Tivon, go down to the original wooden portion of Culture Cottage. There you will find a beautiful and noble gazelle. Bring her to me, for I wish to have such a fine creature in my collection of animals.”


The original portion of Culture Cottage

Tivon switched off his mobile phone after speaking to the royal prince, running down from his servant quarters to Culture Cottage on the opposite street. As he came upon the original wooden portion of Culture Cottage, he heard a crackling sound. He ran quickly into the interior to find a beautiful fairy, dressed in Prada, shining brightly in the darkness.

“What ho!” yelled young Tivon, catching the Prada Fairy in the butterfly net which stood conveniently on the wall. “Oh no!” shrieked the hapless Prada Fairy, dropping her wand in the tumult. Tivon triumphantly took the Prada Fairy to young Prince Alonzo. “What have we here, noble Tivon?” asked the prince irritably, “Did I not ask you to catch a gazelle for me? I have no use for a designer fairy!”


The servant quarters where Tivon lives.

“Your highness,” quaked Tivon, “there was nothing but this fairy in the wooden portion of Culture Cottage. Not a gazelle, not a deer, not an antler in sight, your majesty.”

The Prada Fairy, whose name was Bhavna, said, “Your highness, if I may, please do not be angry with your vizier. It is true, for I am the gazelle you saw. I was running away from the Wicked Aunty Woodbeam, who thinks I stole her Cartier wand. In fact, it was she who stole it from me, and I merely took it back. So, in order to get away from her, I magicked myself into a gazelle.”

The prince scratched his manicured goatee thoughtfully, then asked, “Why did you hide in Culture Cottage? Why not go back to your beautiful home?”

“Alas!” sobbed Bhavni, the Prada Fairy, “My home is under renovation, and it’s too dusty for this frock!”


The castle (under renovation) of Bhavni, the Prada Fairy

The royal vizier, Tivon, felt something was amiss. He respectfully tapped young Prince Alonzo’s shoulder and whispered in his ear. Prince Alonzo frowned, then smiled.

“Bhavni, the Prada Fairy,” said the young prince, “I will get my father’s permission to grant you asylum throughout the land!”, to which the fairy clapped her hands with glee.

“However, only on condition that you truly are Bhavni the Prada Fairy,” and Prince Alonzo pulled Bhavni’s frock, which ripped at the seams!! The beautiful Prada Fairy, Bhavni, morphed into Wicked Aunty Woodbeam.


Wicked Aunty Woodbeam

“How did you know?” raged Wicked Aunty Woodbeam.

“The royal vizier, Tivon, noticed that your frock had a thread unravelling from the hem. That is no Prada frock you’re wearing, O Wicked Aunty Woodbeam!” replied Prince Alonzo, his hands in fists.

“You think you’re so smart, young prince? Do you think you have foiled my plans to wreck fashion sense in your land? Guess again!” And Wicked Aunty Woodbeam snapped her fingers, and her wooden minions appeared out of the wooden chairs in the room. “Get them!” shrieked Wicked Aunty Woodbeam.


Wicked Aunty Woodbeam’s wicked wooden minions

But Prince Alonzo, adept in quantum physics, folded time, and Wicked Aunty Woodbeam and her wicked wooden minions fell through his gray-hole into an oncoming Star LRT train. They smashed into bits, and fell on to the live electric rail, burning the splinters of wood they had become into nothingness.


The LRT train that blighted the Wicked Wooden Aunty etc.

And so the sun set peacefully on the land of Estuary-Upon-Mud that day.

And everyone dressed sensibly ever after.

That was good fun and very whimsical, might I add! Now… if only I can remember the day I took these photos… And where the last few photos were taken!!

National Heritage

In Travel on 27/07/2007 at 22:45
Recently, I tried to get another writer/designer to help me out in one of my publishing projects. The price she expected nearly knocked me over! But she said something I have always thought myself, “It’s a lot of work for so little money, it’s not worth it.” This little incident came to me while I was viewing the photos for this particular blog. 


this is on the hop-on/hop-off tourist bus route, fyi 

I was asked to do an article on buildings I liked in the Klang Valley. So I gathered a little list, and compiled a write-up on each of them. This entailed some research, as opposed to sitting in front a computer and banging out the article in one afternoon.


islamic library 

Simultaneously, I went out taking pictures of these buildings. Mind you, it’s not all that simple, about a dozen buildings for one article means driving to each, taking photos of each, obtaining permission etc. etc. Can be quite tedious. It didn’t help that it was the rainy season (as you might be able to see from the photographs), and I had to beat the weather to get the photographs in time for the deadline.

 

In the end, after having reached the deadline in time, I was told the buildings needed to be re-shot. Furthermore, I was told to obtain permission for all the buildings all over again. Putting aside other projects (as I felt bad about coming up with sub-quality work), I called and emailed the relevant people and made the necessary arrangements.

 

But this made me wonder whether it was really worth it? Many people pursue writing and art direction, but it rarely is lucrative unless you have some kind of solid business supporting the two. As for me, I like writing what I like, and when I like. I have to admit, I enjoyed some parts of creating this article, but at the end of the day, I felt that it wasn’t worth it, especially considering the opportunity cost that came with it.

 

I don’t know, I’m not really motivated to write, or to create, after this article. Guess part of me is slightly moody and arty-farty. Oh, and FYI, the photos for this blog weren’t the rejected ones. These are just quick snapshots I took with a separate camera.


stadium merdeka – what a change from the national mosque! 


the mouldy look is a new faddish architectural style

Anyway, these are two buildings I chose. The National Mosque is a perfect example of good preservation of a national heritage site. The Stadium is the opposite. This is more the pity considering it’s Malaysia’s Golden Jubilee this year. The good Tungku would be heartbroken, I’m sure. The good news is there’s apparently a new trust fund or body who’s supposed to ensure the upkeep of the stadiums (both Merdeka and Negara).

 

I wonder what tourists will think of Stadium Merdeka (they might wander over, and there might be more tourists this year, considering it’s also Visit Malaysia Year).


the monorail station just outside the stadium 

Rainy Afternoon Down South

In Travel on 09/05/2007 at 18:05
No, not Johore… Sepang, more like… 

Recently, I’ve been doing a bout of travelling within the Klang Valley for photography for an article (all of which were not used for the article, unfortunately). With a deadline looming, and rainy weather, one Saturday, I prayed hard, and headed off to Putra Jaya and KLIA. It was raining. Thank God, by the time I reached Putra Jaya, it had stopped (although still overcast). I managed to grab some photos and not get chased away by security guards.

The interesting thing about Putra Jaya is what a ghost town it is on a Saturday afternoon, at least in the administrative area. The precinct never ceases to amaze me, the architecture is amazing, and the diversity is wonderful. And yet, very eerie… I keep on expecting Fox Mulder and Dana Scully (am I showing my age?) to pop up, investigating some sighting of a local legend…

Anyway, from Putra Jaya, I needed to head to the KL International Airport. However, I got lost, which is something rare. Well, I didn’t really get lost, but I nearly did, because I turned into Bangi, when I shouldn’t have. However, I managed to get on track and ended up somewhere near the LCCT, and didn’t pay a single sen for toll from Putra Jaya to KLIA (yippee! as if the cost of petrol isn’t enough!). God was good, as soon as I parked at KLIA, it stopped raining, and got some pictures in.

I got lost here 

Spooky ghost oil palms

Bangkok in my nose

In Travel on 22/03/2007 at 15:40
I just got back from Bangkok, and boy, was it polluted, unlike my last visit about two years ago. Anyway, the trip to the LRT station, and from KL Sentral to the LCCT and from the LCCT to Bangkok were all smooth. The new airport at Bangkok was also pretty amazing, very brutalist architecture and very arty farty. They even left the concrete dust for a more brutalist effect!


view of expressway from our hotel window


view of chaos from our hotel lobby

Anyway, the Eastin Bangkok is near the Victory Monument, nowhere near the last hotel I was at, which is in the Sukhumvit area. This area is all dusty and full of tuk-tuks and really busy. Nice, but also a bit intrusive. The first evening, we got in, had a shower, then we were off to MBK, where we had dinner. We had Thai vegetarian food which was hot and salty and not much else…


love the signs


wires wires everywhere

We went back to the parents’ hotel, which was beautiful! Ours? Well, firstly, no coffee-making facilities, no newspapers in the morning, weird lighting, and a big warning sign above the toilet cistern, something like “Imagine the amount of water and detergent going towards cleaning hotel towels. Let’s keep things green. Make a choice! Towel on the floor means wash! Towel on the rack means don’t wash!” … Anyway, not as nice as the Indra Regent, but ours is cheaper, so…. We walked from the Indra Regent back to Eastin, and zonked out immediately.


ah, haze… when will you go away?


Ronald McDonald goes Thai

The next day began with buffet breakfast, followed by shopping near the Indra Regent. We went into the Indra shopping complex, looked at shoes and clothes and some touristy stuff etc. The whole area is just chock full of shopping. There were loads of shopping complexes around the Indra Regent, as well as other things tourists need, like guided tours.


ploen chit station


canal near phallus shrine

We just mooched around, went into tiny alleyways and into the throng of the crowded hot marketplace. It was fun for me because I hadn’t seen this part of Bangkok before, having lived on Sukhumvit before (which is much cleaner).


always been fascinated with urban junkle


saphan taksin station

Bangkok was covered in a pinky orangey haze when we landed, and because it was so cool, and less humid than KL, we didn’t feel it until much later. Apparently the news reports said it was “fog”. Right!


Thai strays lead a cushy life

We eventually went back to the hotel (i can’t remember what we did for lunch, actually), rested, then showered, then went shopping again! We needed to meet with my parents anyway, because we hadn’t brought an adapter and we both needed to charge our phones. So we headed back to the same shopping area, but explored bits and pieces behind the Indra Regent. We ended up eating in an Indian (!) restaurant.


waiting for the chao phraya cruise

The next day was sightseeing. I had done some rough planning, and we had our maps and our day tickets for the skytrain. We headed off first to see the Erawan Shrine near Chit Lom Station. The whole Chit Lom area is amazing and large and so Singaporean compared to our roads near the Victory Monument. The Erawan Shrine was packed, people praying and burning joss sticks. It wasn’t that bad, the smell of joss sticks, at least compared to the smell exhaust fumes…


this building reminds me of Joan Aiken’s “Black Hearts In Battersea”, don’t know why

We then headed to the Swissotel thingamijig near the Wave Place near Ploen Chit station (well, sort of near). Behind this hotel is the not-so-famous Phallus Shrine. Firstly, it was very hard to find. We asked at least three security guards as well as the hotel reception.

Anyway, the Phallus Shrine was quite interesting, to say the least. It was surrounded with wooden penises of all sizes and shapes. Apparently, inside the shrine was a Chinese goddess. I was quite impressed at how intermingled the Thais were in their worship. They worshipped Hindu gods and goddesses, Buddha (of course) and Chinese deities too! The Phallus Shrine was a shrine for fertility, you go there if you want to get pregnant.

this will be featured in the next thai horror story


this too

Next was Saphan Taksin station. There was a tourist bureau there, where we found out that we could take the Chao Phraya tourist boat for just 100 baht. So that’s exactly what we did.

The tour was interesting, and probably the highlight of the trip. We stopped at Wat Arun, which was quite incredible. One of those weird Thai blend of Buddhism+Hinduism, with massive raksaksa creatures in a mini-temple nearby but Buddha in the major wat (surrounded by carvings and raksaksa ornamentation – so weird). The architecture of the temple was weird, every corner you turn, you think you’ve been there before, but you haven’t really. Kind of Twilight Zone-ish.

We took the ferry back to the pier, then we headed down to the 2nd last stop, Oriental Pier, on the river public taxi. We were looking for the Assumption Church and another wat, but we were so tired and hungry (i think we hadn’t even had lunch yet), we ended up ditching the idea and headed to McDonalds. It was not my initial idea, and i was a bit grumpy, but the fact that it was all hamburgers (as opposed to beef burgers) made me very very happy, and after eating, i felt better.


wat arun

We headed back to the Saphan Taksin station (we passed by Assumption Church, School + College on the way to McDonalds) and made our way back to our hotel. The trip back was really tiring, and we were choked up with exhaust fumes and other fun breathing stuff on the walk back t the hotel. Needless to say, we had a shower as soon as we walked through the door.

After the shower was the Indra Regent again. We then had dinner at a Chinese tai chow across the road, visited the parents, then headed back. By this time, i was feeling really tired. We watched some tv, Discover Channel had something on Singapore’s history. I got to watch Lee Kwan Yew crying when Tungku Abdul Rahman told Singapore to bugger off…

The next morning was early buffer breakfast again, then the cyber cafe for me (such a computer junkie, but had a number of work emails to check on). We then packed, and headed to the Indra Regent. We took a tuk-tuk (say that fast!).

Anyway, we mooched around a bit for shopping, then had lunch at the same tai chow the night before. It was soon time to head for the airport, and home. By the time we were on the plane, i was feeling wonky, thanks to the Bangkok haze, which lived in the phlegm and mucus in my throat and nose for a full fortnight.

Jetting Here & There: Amman + Petra

In Travel on 10/02/2007 at 13:20
I can’t believe I wrote this two years ago. This follows my adventures in Dubai, but before my travels into Israel. I kept this aside, hoping to sell an article on Petra, and finally I did, now available in the Jan/Feb issue of PYO Holiday. Here is my personal write-up, with pictures not available in the magazine.

The Desert/King’s Highway

It was an early day the following day, down to Petra. Along the way, we drove along Amman, viewing the sights of the city. We drove along the “immigrant camps”, which is a deceptive name, since they were actually nice houses and not the migrant camps I was used to hearing about. I was told that Palestinian refugees apparently get a Jordianian passport immediately, but the economic conditions isn’t so good for them.


Wadi Mousa/Valley of Moses

Amman is an impressive city, lying in a valley so that you’re either looking down into parts of the city, or looking upwards on to slopes where some parts of the cities lie. In the most affluent area, where the embassies and high commissions are, there are military men posted on every street corner, which was a novel thing to see. We drove past the palace, but like in Dubai, we weren’t allowed to take photos. Like Dubai, the city lies in vast desertland. However, the desert is a gritty sandy colour, with grainier sand, unlike Dubai, whose sand was fine and white. It was much cooler than in Dubai though, with temperatures in the early 20s.


Djinn Blocks Over Tomb


Sandstone Cliffs Along Siq (Street)

I was still very impressed with Amman, perhaps more so than Dubai. Someone said to me that Dubai is fast becoming “the Singapore of the Middle East”, which is in many ways true. Amman, on the other hand, is something quite like I’ve never experienced before, with the culture and tradition practically ingrained into the dusty valleys and slopes. In many ways, the narrow streets and quaint houses reminded me of Toledo, in Spain, perhaps because these cities are also on hills and slopes. However, there is also a world of difference here, with no cobblestones, and the poverty quite evident.

After this quick tour of the city, we zoomed down to Petra, the ancient city built literally in a ravine. There was just plain flat desert along the way, beautiful blue skies with just miles and miles of golden sand, the horizon barely visible. We stopped by a tourist rest stop along the way, with a few other tourist buses parked along the low flat building. I got some coffee (very sweet and strong), and walked around the souvenier shop. I found it interesting that most of the tourist items for sale had Christian religious significance. I didn’t get anything though, considering how expensive Jordan is.


Glimpse of the Treasury, just like Indiana Jones


Camels In Front of the Treasury, didn’t ride any

We clambered on to the bus after half an hour, and then dashed down the highway again, heading towards Petra. Soon, we were driving slowly along a mountain ridge, and the tourist guide advised us that we were overlooking the “new” Petra, which was called “Wadi Musa” (or “Valley of Moses” in English – because Moses was said to have used this route to get the Hebrews from Egypt back to Israel).

The view was breathtaking.

With the wind whipping around us, and looking down into the Valley of Moses was something like I’ve never experienced before. If you asked me if I thought I felt like Indiana Jones, the answer would probably have been “yes”. I knew I was about to experience something like I’ve never before!

For a review of Petra itself, read the article in the Jan/Feb issue of PYO Holiday

Tombs At Entrance Into Street of Facades

Tomb In Treasury Courtyard

Tombs 67, 68, 69, 70 & 71


Street of Facades


More Street of Facades


Shrines Along the Siq


Petra Basin


Ruins in Petra Basin


View of High Places

The Backstreets of Pudu

In Travel on 11/01/2007 at 15:59

Jalan Pudu Lama is one those areas in Kuala Lumpur which takes you back to the good old days. It’s tucked away from the crowded main Jalan Pudu, and walking along this little hillslope backlane, you wouldn’t imagine the dusty Pudu Bus Station is just a stone’s throw away.

 

 

Sitting right next to Maybank, this road features rows of refurbished shoplots, a refurbished house which used to be a restaurant (but it’s been closed down – rumour has it that it’s haunted), loads of backpacker hostels, a sikh temple, plenty of friendly strays… It’s really just charming.

 

Go take a look-see!

Mooching Around In Malacca (Part 2)

In Travel on 07/01/2007 at 01:09
It is possible that I might want to retire in Malacca. It has so much character, and offers so much heritage and yet has modern amenities. And who wouldn’t want to retire in a place which has some kind of character? Saying that, all the things I find curious and charming are most likely pedestrian and boring for those born and bred in Malacca. The grass is always greener, and all that…

In any case, I loved the great number of religious buildings in the older parts of Malacca. Backtracking to the first afternoon, we walked around the old town, and ended up in the Keling Mosque. I was trailing behind a group of German tourists, trying to catch what the tour guide (who looked Japanese) account. Interestingly, and if I got it right (since my German is super rusty), the tour guide told the group that the Keling Mosque was based on typical Baba/Nyonya architecture. He mentioned several other things, which I couldn’t catch, but I was quite taken (in a non-morbid way) with the cemetery inside the mosque.

In fact, I found it interesting that there are cemeteries in the most unlikely places in the old part of town. You can be walking along the street, minding your own business, trying to find something other than Chicken Rice Balls to eat, and the next thing you know, you’re in a cemetary.

Anyway, we then headed to a temple at the end of the street. I’m not sure what the name of this temple is (wonderful travel writer that I am), but it was definitely a Taoist temple (as opposed to a Buddhist temple). Again, there was evidence of the dead, with the number of family shrines and the umpteen tablets all over the place. This temple was small, and choked up with incense and joss sticks, and the family shrines surrounding the outer walls made everything really oppressive. To make it even spookier (for me), there was piped chanting. Unlike, the Keling Mosque, this place gave me the chills, despite the bright scorching sun.

Next, we went off to a very large Buddhist temple across the road. This place larger and airier and far less creepy than the earlier temple. I personally liked the little lion statues outside the temple, they reminded me of the MerLion (heh!). My friend spent a long time looking at the statues of Buddha and the little coins and prayer beads, due to his fascination with Buddhism. After we had seen all we there was to see, we went off for a drink.

Sipping our drinks and just looking around, I realised how much focus there was on death in Malacca. From the cemeteries to the family shrines in temples to the undertakers on every street… Amazing!

Anyway, it was then time for us to go back to the hotel to change for the wedding. As mentioned previously, we went out to town again after the dinner for some drinks at the karaoke/pubs-with-live-bands. Tipsy for the first time in many many months, absolutely wonderful!

Then we got lost for two hours heading back to our hotel, which also included a little accidental visit into a Portuguese graveyard (did I mention that there were cemeteries everywhere?). Then sleep…

Then the next day (as promised previously), we checked out of the hotel. We decided to look at the sights (again), but this time, we decided on visiting the museums and galleries. We went to the Maritime Museum (the ship above was closed) and were not unimpressed (although not unduly impressed either).

We walked along an embankment, with a touristy-type market.

Then we bought a five-museum-in-one ticket. I must say, the art gallery was really the highlight of all this. I was especially taken with the work of an artist, Gerard Van Den Oetelaar.

Some of the museums had very interesting displays.

Then we headed home.

I have to admit, Malacca intrigues me. I definitely will head back!!

National Mosque

In Travel on 26/12/2006 at 12:32
 

 

The Good Bachelor

In Travel on 27/11/2006 at 01:10

In October, I signed up for a silent retreat at Maranatha House in Tanarimba Janda Baik, on the border of the Selangor and Pahang state line. The retreat was set in a property development, which had country homes of people who have much more money than I do.

 

 

 

The retreat and surroundings were conducive for meditation. Although my room was a bit small and very damp, it was a worthwhile package. The food was reasonably good too.

 

 

 

It was a fantastic weekend of fantastic spiritual growth for me. If any of you are thinking of seeking guidance on meditative Christian prayer, this is definitely the place to go to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ipoh

In Travel on 22/10/2006 at 14:18

Recently, before I left my old job, I had the opportunity to go up to Ipoh. However, since it was a rushed trip (I mean, how can anyone enjoy holidays done during one teeny tiny weekend?), I only managed a few photos. And since the two days whizzed by so fast, I just remembered it as a great place to go back to savour at a leisurely pace.

Abandoned building project lending the town a ‘gothic feel’

The field in front of St. Michael’s

A pretty church (I should really pay attention more!! I’ve lost the hang of travelling for travel writing!!!)

The famous temple in the limestone cave (don’t ask me which one, because I can’t remember)

Monkeys at the trees of the temple’s entrance.

Some pretty restored shoplots along Jalan Lau Ek Ching

The spooky hotel actually had an amazing rooftop, which featured this wonderful pool!

Ai-Poh!!

On the Fringes of PJ

In Travel on 05/10/2006 at 01:45
The first time I went to visit my friend at her office in Saujana Resort, I was gobsmacked! Coming from ugly ol’ Kelana Jaya, it was such a shock to know that there was beautiful office space just a stone’s throw away. But wait… the first shock was to see the old airport road has now been transformed into a four lane highway (right pic)! 

Saujana Resort itself wasn’t that surprising (pic above), I have been there a number of times. One thing I hadn’t noticed was that the Japanese International School of Kuala Lumpur (JSKL) had relocated to Saujana (left pic). Good location, and much bigger school than it used to be!

Driving down the road, looking for Peremba Square, I realised that I wasn’t aware that this plot of Palm Oil estate had been developed into an elite housing and commercial area (pics above). I suppose it’s fair that I didn’t know, since the housing development is still under construction… 

 

Peremba Square itself was like something not from this country (but saying that, I was working in Kelana Jaya, so almost anything is prettier…). The architecture was pretty (pics above). The landscaping especially was nice (pics below): long green boulevards, little fountains, bushy green bushes, I recall thinking how nice it would be to have a cup of coffee with a notepad, having an editorial meeting in the gardens (my friend said, “Yah, right!”, so I guess it’s just a romantic notion). 

 

But I still would love to work in Saujana Resort.

What’s Left Behind

In Travel on 20/09/2006 at 21:58
Oh well… It’s been ages and ages. In actual fact, the full duration of my short (or long, depending on how you look at it) tenure in a ‘multi-national’ company. Of course, lots of things suffered: my blogs, my writing, my dogs, my fitness (I put on five kilos of FAT!! I look like a whale!!) etc. Anyway, now I am free, and I’ll gladly show the world what I left behind. 

The company is in Kelana Jaya. Now, I don’t mind the place, I used to spend time there, swimming, visiting friends and my old company secretary. But as a workplace, a lot is left to be desired.

Aside from the building itself (the less said, the better), there weren’t many places to eat decent food. And I had to cross the LDP to get to office. What more need I say?


The pool (upper right of pic)

 


The stadium

 


The building (fifth floor – scrumptious lunches not)

 


Kelena Centrepoint

 


LDP jams, fun fun fun!

The Holy Land…. (Part 3)

In Travel on 04/02/2006 at 15:50
Church of Annunciation, Nazareth

The Wall Seperating Bethlehem (Part of Palestine) From Israel

Greek Orthodox Brothers Outside The Church of The Holy Birth, Bethlehem 

Traffic Jam In Bethlehem 

Church of Peter Gallicantu, Jerusalem 

View of Jerusalem (beautiful rainbow after a rainy morning) 

The Wailing Wall, Jerusalem 

Little Sculpture In Garden of Gethsemene, Jerusalem 

Caesarea 

Jezreel Valley 

Migado 

The Dead Sea, where the scrolls were found
The Dead Sea, cave where Isaiah scroll was found

Bethany, Beyond Jordan, where it is said that Jesus was baptised

The Holy Land…. (Part 2)

In Travel on 25/01/2006 at 23:30

The following day, we checked out of Nazareth, and headed northwards to Haifa. We went to Mt. Carmel along the way (right pic), where Elijah defeated the prophets of baal. The chapel on the hill was really beautiful. We ended up in Jaffa, where Peter had the vision of the food coming down from heaven on the roof of a house. We visited one of the many purported homes where this vision took place, and by dusk, we had reached Jerusalem and settled in our hotel.

Jerusalem By Night From My Hotel Balcony


Entering Jerusalem

The next day was one of the most moving days for me. We began by walking along the Via Dolorosa, or “the street of sorrows” in the old city of Jerusalem. This is the best approximation which can be created of the way Jesus took from the time his judgment was pronounced to the time of his crucifixation (because Saladin created the third wall, and there are new shops and whatnot). I was choked up almost all the time.

We couldn’t go into the first station, the place where Pontius Pilate condemned Jesus, because it’s now a school. So we stood outside, then headed to the 2nd station, the chapel of condemnation and flagellation (name speaks for itself) and the Lithostrotos (left pic), where he received the crown of thorns. These looked amazingly similar to how it was portrayed in Mel Gibson’s “The Passion of the Christ“.

Then we headed to the 3rd station (pic above), where Jesus falls under the weight of the cross for the first time. This is just a plaque along the street wall. The 4th station to the 9th station are all the same, just a little stone plaque to commemorate the place. By the 9th station, we were almost at the top of Calvary. On top of calvary now is a monolithic church (right pic), shared between the Greek Orthodox church and the Roman Catholic church. There is just so much sadness i felt there. I touched the ground on which Jesus was crucified, and visitors can view the crack in the hill which occurred when Jesus died (the whole of Calvary is pure rock!).

View of Golgotha

We also visited Bethlehem (pic above and mosque left), it was nice to visit the place of his birth after visiting the place of his death. We saw the cave where he was born, and had service in the field where the shepherds met the angels (right pic below – cave where the shepherds sheltered). The next day, we went to Mt Zion and Mt of Olives where Jesus taught us the Lord’s Prayer. We then did the Palm Sunday walk, which was also quite sad, esp the Basilica of the Agony next to the Garden of Gethsamene (pic further below). We visited a few other places, like Bethany, where there’s a church commemorating the home of Martha, Mary and Lazarus, and the Church of Peter Gallicantu (cock crow), where Peter denied Jesus. Inside that church is the actual prison cell where Jesus was kept.

 

It was such a moving experience. And you learn so much about certain things in the Bible which sometimes we don’t really question. For example, at the Bible Walk Garden (right pic), we learnt about the usual traditions and ways of the bedouins, which explained how Sarah overhead the angels talking to Abraham. We also learnt the usual Jewish custom, esp during the Passover, which also explained the seating arrangement which must have occurred during the last supper. We also learnt about the customs of shepherds in Jordan/Israel, which puts so much more depth to many pastoral parts of the Bible, esp Psalm 23.

It’s also worth the visit because the Christians there are a lot more “muhibbah” then i’ve ever seen anywhere else in the world. It’s really worth the visit, i encourage any of you who can go to make the trip.

The Holy Land…. (Part 1)

In Travel on 15/01/2006 at 16:45

We went into Israel by bus via the Allenby Bridge crossing, so we passed by Mt. Nebo in Jordan, where Moses saw the promised land. There is a small chapel on the mountain (pic above), and the view was just amazing (pic below), you can see the whole of the Jordan river and the dead sea seperating Jordan and Israel. Jordan is mostly desert, and the valley just beyond the Jordan is just so green and fertile, i can imagine how Moses must have felt. It was truly exhilirating! The day we were there was very clear, and we could even see Jericho in the distance. 

After the border crossing, we had lunch in Jericho (which is in Palestine – left pic), after which we visited the ruins of Jericho, which is still being excavated to this day. We spent the night in Nazareth, and visited the Mt of Beatitudes the next day. 

Most places where something important happened (or close to the place where something happened) is commemorated by a church, usually a Roman Catholic or Greek Orthodox church. The church on the Mt of Beatitudes is beautiful (pic above), and the gardens even more beautiful. It overlooks the Sea of Galilee, and we had our first service there. 

That was really a fantastic experience, there were many little parts in the gardens where Christians from all over the world were worshipping. So by the side of us was an American group praying in tongues, while on the other side was a Spanish group singing songs of praise in spanish, it was just so fantastic, all of us worshipping
God at once like that. It really moved me. 

Synagogue Ruins in Capernaum

Then we took a boat ride across the Sea of Galilee to visit the ruins of Capernaum, and the house of Peter’s mother-in-law where Jesus healed the boy who was lowered through her roof. Then we went to the church of Peter’s primacy (left pic below), which commemorates the place where Jesus re-instates Peter. We walked to the neighbouring church, the Church of the Miracle of Loaves and Fish (right pic below).

The next day we went to Mt Tibor, where Jesus was transfigured. There was an amazing church there (right pic and above), really amazing. The view of the Jezreel valley from Mt Tibor was awesome, it’s apparently the most fertile land in the whole of Israel. Then we went on down to Migado aka Armegeddon, which was in ruins. Then we went down to the Jordan river (left pic below) where there were busloads of many people getting baptised. Er… sometime during our stay at Nazareth, we went down Cana, where Jesus performed his first miracle of turning water into wine at a wedding feast (pic of the church commemorating the miracle on the right below).

Jetting Here & There: Dubai

In Travel on 17/12/2005 at 00:15
I have been very busy. Busy beyond belief, truth be told. This post has been ready in draft form for ages, but I haven’t had the chance to size the pictures. Anyway… My camera hasn’t been with me all the time nowadays, unfortunately, and when it has, it has faced quite a bit of adversity. It has now lost its cover somewhere in Isreal by the Sea of Galilee… 

Swooshing Down The Roads of Dubai

Yep, I made my way to the Holy Land recently, via Dubai and Jordan. I had never been to the Middle East before, so I was looking forward to the experience. It was a 7 hour flight to Dubai. The airport is vast, with massive numbers of shops (apparently all of them are open 24 hours). We got out without any problems, and went on a group tour of Dubai city. We arrived at dawn, so we managed to catch the sunrise in Dubai. It was a cool morning, and Dubai is extremely impressive. Tall buildings shoot up out of nowhere, and beautiful manicured gardenspepper the city.

Houses in Dubai

I was told that Dubai itself is naturally desert land, but they installed underground springs to create those beautiful green gardens. Most structures were in the style of traditional middle eastern Muslim architecture, having a facade which rarely indicates what the building was meant for. We stopped by a mosque (right pic: I didn’t quite catch what the mosque was for, because I was still half asleep) to take photos and stretch our legs. I noticed that advertising was quite interesting too (pic further below).
Impressive Promenade of Buildings

Apparently, Dubai has about an 80% expatriate population, which explains the number of shopping complexes, monolithic cars, and weird dressing along the Arabian Sea. We drove down to the Burj Al-Arab, which was slightly less impressive in real life than in pictures. The hotel is placed on a little peninsula along the Arabian Sea, and apparently you can’t even go in without an appointment. So, we did the touristy thing – sit by the beach while taking photos. 

The Creek

Riding Down The Creek!

We then drove down to the ‘creek’ to take a boat ride to the Spice Market. The pier was really quite interesting, featuring a little tower which had features resembling a face. The ride along the ‘creek’ (sorry, I’m used to creeks being slightly smaller and stream-like) was refreshing, because since the sun crept up, it had become hotter and hotter. I have to admit, the Spice Market (left pic) was a slight let-down, although I did buy some frankincense for the church (hopefully, they’ll use it during Chrismas service!). Then we made our way to the famous Gold Souk. I must admit, this part really bored me. Unlike the rest of the group, shopping, especially jewellery shopping (roll eyeballs much!), is not for me. So i wasted away an hour or so, totally bored while the other Malaysians shopped.

The Burj Al-Arab

After this, we had an awesome beriyani lunch at a nice hotel. Dubai has a huge Indian population, and this was apparently the best beriyani around (I can vouch for that). From the hotel, we rushed back to the airport to make a mad dash to the plane for Amman. Thank God the flight was short, and I slept through most of the flight. 

It was clear to me when we landed that Amman was starkly poorer compared to Dubai. We drove to the west side of Amman (apparently the more affluent side), and check into the Days Inn (yes, the very same hotel which got bombed just one week after we left!). It was a nice hotel though, and I got an awesome suite. Amman was also very much colder than Dubai, and quieter, less bustly. It was nightfall when we checked in, so we basically just had dinner and called it a night, because the next day, we were heading out to Petra.

Upcoming
Photography & Text on Jordan: pending publication in V Mag (March 2006)
Photography & Text on Israel & Palestine: pending publication in Off The Edge (Jan 2006)

Detour: Fraser’s Hill 05 (Part 2)

In Travel on 23/09/2005 at 10:25

I spend the days driving around, or walking around taking pictures. We even went to places and roads I had never been to before. That’s not to say that Fraser’s is very big, it’s actually quite small, but there were so many little corners and nooks I had never known existed before. E and I even spent a breezy sunny afternoon sunbathing on a paddle boat on Allan’s Water. Surrounded by the green tropical virgin forest, the climate was exactly how I wish the climate would be like in Kuala Lumpur. I ended up getting burn shoulders!

 

Fraser’s Hill hasn’t changed much in the fifteen years I’ve been away. It’s still quiet and rustic and quaint, what with the many authentic and old colonial bungalows scattered everywhere. The old coffeeshop was still the same (pic below), with its large round marble tables and wooden chairs, friendly proprietor and reasonably priced food. The Tavern had some pretty good cake, although the coffee was sadly weak. 

The Glen (pic above) still looked as inviting as it ever did, sitting aloof on top of a little hill overlooking the golf course. I was keen to go on one of the forest trails, but in the end, we hadn’t any time. I definitely look forward to heading back again.

 

 

Detour: Fraser’s Hill 05 (Part 1)

In Travel on 05/09/2005 at 13:05
I went on a mini-holiday to Fraser’s Hill recently, and decided to couple that with a little bit of work. The end result is basically that I can’t re-produce what I am doing for that article here. However, I do have some extra pictures, so I guess this will end up more as a photo blog than anything else.

Thank God, no “House of Wax” experiences for us!
On the way up to Fraser’s Hill, which is somewhere between the two more famous hill resorts, Genting Highlands and Cameron Highlands, my friend E and I got lost. Frankly, I’m not too sure if we got lost in Selangor on the way up, or in Pahang itself, in which the hill resort lies. All I know is, we ended up in many many places which was tremendously developed, but was empty and ghost-town like (picture above). It amazed me how many new shophousing areas and residential areas lay abandoned all over the place. Even more amazing was nice new smoothly tarred roads which hardly seemed to be used, contrasted to the bumpy and busy old trunk road. 

We finally got to the road leading up to Fraser’s Hill. Before passing by the good old Gap resthouse (pic below), we came across one of the country’s reservoirs. Scenic as it was, I could see why the authorities were concerned about water provision, considering how low the water level was (pic above). 

Fraser’s Hill has so many childhood memories for me, and I was so pleased that I was finally going back after all these years. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get a room in the Glen bungalow, the railway bungalow we always used to board at. We had to settle for the Pines Resort (pic below), which ended up being a solid and economical choice. With three bedrooms, a living room, kitchen, two bathrooms, a huge balcony, and a tv and fireplace, the place was a steal at RM110 a night.

From the balcony of the Pines Resort, I was amazed at how swiftly clouds sped by, as if it were late for a meeting. Sometimes, late at night, I watched colourfule aweful thunderstorms taking place at lower levels than where I was. This kind of spectacle was hardly something I am used to viewing, truly an awesome experience, if ever one gets the opportunity… 

One can see bungalows peeking through trees from a distance

The Police Station, erected in 1919

The Town Centre Clock Tower

Stream on the way to the Jerai Waterfalls

Jerai Waterfalls

Old government quarters

Government holiday bungalow, appearing quite abandoned

We’ll Be Coming Round The Mountain, When We Come!

In Travel on 24/08/2005 at 11:55
Well, techically a hill, not mountain. After having lived all my life in Petaling Jaya, more than three decades no less, I’ve never been up Gasing Hill. Unbelievable, even to me, considering I spent some time in the Methodist Primary School nearby. It is the only “green lung” within the whole of Petaling Jaya. Unfortunately for all but an elite few, this green lungs is slowly being eaten away by the cancer known as high-rise condominiums and similar developments. Before it disappears into nothingness, I decided to haul a friend up the slopes of the spinning top. 

At the foot of Gasing Hill are some of the most elegant houses in the Klang Valley. I’m not talking about those colossal mammoths teetering precariously on the slopes closer to the Federal Highway, but the nice former government houses in the deeper recesses of the foothill (pic), and close to one of the entrances to the jungle trail. Apparently, there are many entrances into the jungle trail, but this was the only one I was aware of. So, E and I parked here and walked in.

Despite the rising heat of the day, we were kept cool in the bowels of the forest, with a green canopy shading us from the sun’s rays. E and I were quite taken with the forest environment. E commented that the only thing missing was the sound of water, and in hindsight, I must agree. The sound of a stream, or some kind of water element, would have made the experience a lot better. In any case, we came to a little junction near the entrance of the forest trail, and opted to go upwards, rather than along a little stream (from which came no sound).

We walked on a little wooden bridge over the noiseless stream, and then headed up along the uphill path. The path was earth hewn into steps, and kept in place by wooden planks, very handy for those wearing slippery trainers like me. We came across interesting large mushrooms/fungus (pic below), as well as ferns towering high above our heads.

When we reached what we later found out was the top of the hill, we discovered a little lookout hut on stilts (pic below). I climbed up with excitement, reminded of the little tree huts my brother and I used to have in our fruit trees at home. The view, although breathtaking, was partially blocked by the trees around us. I could see a few other peaks along the jungle reserve, including the towers of electrical or telecommunication stations. The hut itself was covered in interesting graffitti. Tempted though we were, E and I did not include any further contribution to the pop art.

We made our way down the hill, and came to a little path which led to a fence. It seemed to me that either we were in the ‘learning’ forest (perhutanan pendidikan, or something like that… yes, I don’t use Malay at all in my daily life!) enclosure, or the fence partitioned off the ‘learning’ forest from us. Whatever it is, the walk got a little boring along this route, and we finally came to a point when we just ended up exactly where we were when we started out. We decided to take another path, which looked like it headed in a different direction, but ended up walking alongside a few houses before we reached an exit close to the main entrance (pic with next para).

I have to admit, I was disappointed at this juncture, but when it came down to making a decision of whether to go back by the stream, or go out for coffee, I opted for coffee. I think subconsciously I realised that I hadn’t done enough research as to the tracks and the maps, and I really didn’t want to do a half-arsed walkabout, especially with the dark clouds rolling in. So we rolled into E’s car, and headed for a drive along Gasing Hill.

We drove along a few routes which I never been on before, considering that most of my exploration of the area was on my bicycle years ago, and the slopes chosen were way to steep for me to cycle up. We came across the famous Hindu temple right on top of the hill. We parked along the side, with a breathtaking view of old Petaling Jaya, and the fantastic development along the Old Klang Road. I can never get used to the colossol multi-storey highway there, which reminds me so much of Bangkok. We got a good look at the monkeys playing there (in all senses of the word – pic below), and we also went up to the temple, from which there was an even more spectacular view (pics further below).

 

In any case, now I’ve done a little research, and hope to go back into the forest reserve soon. There appears to be five peaks, and we appeared to have just climbed the one closest to the entrance. Very disappointing…

(FYI, this post was written before the previous haze post. Notice how the haze was already there when we climbed up Gasing Hill, albeit not as bad yet)

Hazy Shade of Malaysia

In Travel on 15/08/2005 at 16:00
Waking up last Tuesday (9th August), I stretched, made myself a cup of coffee, opened up the door to my backyard, and took in a nice deep breath of Indonesian smoke. Yes, the haze was back. Every year or so, Malaysians enjoy the cloying yellow haze: sometimes for a month or so, sometimes for weeks, and thankfully, this last time around, it was for several days. 

View from my backyard

Despite its shorter duration this year, the haze was definitely at its thickest, most toxic level ever. Whereas before, we saw the haze, this time round, we even smelt it. Waking up each day, from Tuesday to Thursday, I smelt the acrid smell of burning. The whole atmosphere was yellow, and I couldn’t bear to drive with my windows down, or even be outdoors for anything more than ten minutes.
Mid-Afternoon Sun
Thank God, I didn’t suffer much, although my eyes experienced a stinging sensation after prolonged periods of time. Some people developed respitory problems, while the typical symptoms of suffering were blocked noses and dry congested throats. Hospitals were aparently quite busy during the haze. 

While the Air Pollution Index rose from 300 to 500++ during those days in the Klang Valley, people still found themselves driving through dense orangey-yellow smoke every morning. Most people turned against Indonesia, from whom Malaysia received this precious gift. A sheepish apology was swiftly followed by a rebuttal, “Malaysian Companies Cause of Open Burning In Sumatera”. Yeah, whatever, yo! It’s your country, do something about it. And it would have been nice if they would reveal the name of those companies so the Malaysian consumers could do something about it. Yet nothing was revealed. 

Thank God (once again!) Friday so the slow dissipation of the Klang Valley haze. With an ironic twist, those escaping the Klang Valley to the north and east found themselves encased in toxic fumes, as the winds had swept the smoke north and east, to Penang and the east coast. They drove back in droves. 

Monday 15th August: the haze is almost a distant memory. Miraculously, not only was the haze blown away during the weekend, but the aftermath of dust and smoke was washed away by heavy rains.

Now… let’s hope Indonesia will keep their acrid smoke to themselves in 2006.

Putra Jaya Through A Phone Lens

In Travel on 25/07/2005 at 23:16

When I bought my new Sony Ericsson K300i a few months ago, I thought it’d be fun to do a whole blog just using my camera phone. Of course, it won’t be as clear as my Nikon digital camera, but I thought it would be good to mix the technology, see the results, and if anything comes out wonky, call it “art”. Aside from that, this post revolves around “the making of” a V Mag article, so I have to ensure that there was no clash between the “professional” photos taken, and the ones used for this blog. And no, you’ll have to buy the magazine to find out exactly what the article is on.

Anyway, the day started early-ish. I met C, a freelance writer for the Chinese V Mag, at his place, but due to some complications, we had to kill some time before kicking off to Putra Jaya. So he took me to the Bukit Bintang market (pics above and below), where we had a drink. He mentioned that the market was really popular with hairdresser types, before they went in for work. Looking around at the tables around me, I could see what he said was true. Unfortunately, I stupidly deleted those pictures, but have a few of the market instead.

We made a pit-stop at Imbi Plaza, passing through Jalan Imbi and Jalan Bukit Bintang along the way. When he was done with his business, we headed south-west towards Putra Jaya, through Sungei Besi. There appears to be quite a number of abandoned developments in the Serdang/Seri Kembangan area (pic below). These areas look great for exploring, I think they’ll be like totally different worlds to me. I should look into this some day.

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Putra Jaya made itself known to us when the street lights along the highway became all interesting and ornamental, quite amazing actually (left pic). We drove around, looking for the Town Council building. Unfortunately, and unlike any other Malaysian city, Putra Jaya is divided into “precints” and “parcels”, and we initially had no idea whether a ‘parcel’ was inside a precint, or the other way around. However, I did know how to get to the main administrative parcel/precint/plot, where I knew most of the ministries were (I believe Precinct 1?).

The whole of this area was one stupendous roundabout. I told C that he needn’t worry if we missed something, because we’d be bound to come to it again, so long as we don’t get off the road. We took a drive into the Health and Education Ministry section, and were both quite impressed with the architecture. For some reason, I was reminded of Singapore (I bet the stones will soon start being hurled!). We finally found an Information Centre(right pic), where we enquired as to the whereabouts of the Town Council building. No one knew where this was. Unfortunately, it didn’t help that neither C nor I knew what “Town Council” was in Malay. Eventually, we managed to explain ourselves, and got directions.

We headed pass the huge stadium-like mosque, which led to a massive bridge, and then on to a massive boulevard. From the Putra Jaya website, I can’t ascertain which promenade we were on, but it looked like “Dataran Wawasan” to me.

All I can say is: impressive! I certainly was awed by the vast huge massiveness of this stretch of the city. I also found some of the buildings totally awesome in design and structure, definitely worth a visit. This part of the city had an added surreal quality, because there were hardly any cars, or pedestrians, or anyone at all around. Added to this atmosphere was a light drizzle, which all made me feel like I was an unwitting perfomer in a science fiction movie (pics above and below). Thrilling!

 

We finally made it to the Town Council building (pic above), which was an amazing two-building structure, with an interesting metal arch joining them both. Facing it was a massive field, in which was a massive square with flag poles. We parked, got out of the car, and mooched around, waiting for the rain to stop. In the meantime, we popped into the “Palace of Justice” right opposite the Town Council building (pic below).

Again, I was very impressed (C was too, although he might deny this later). I can’t possibly imagine how much they must have spent building each building here in Putra Jaya. Apparently, the main aim is to make Putra Jaya visitors feel small and ant-like, and it works. I also have to admit, this building is a far far cry from Denmark House along Jalan Ampang, or the old beautiful colonial Magistrate’s Court house along Jalan Raja. To waste away more time, C and I headed on to the cafeteria, which balanced the beauty and vastness of the building, in its small and unimpressive corner. However, the over-inflated prices made up for its humble looks.

Eventually, the rain stopped, and we managed to get to work. When we were done, C decided to take a drive around Putra Jaya, where we saw these magnificent bridges (pic below).

More Pics Of Putra Jaya

Kampung Baiduri – A New Dawn

In Travel on 04/07/2005 at 16:05
When I tell people where I live, the usual response is, “Wah! You so rich one ah!” or “That place plenty bungalow bungalow, right?”. Well, I’m not rich, although my area does have a number of bungalows. Just a stone’s throw away though is Kampung Baiduri, one of the largest and earliest squatter settlements, with a reported 6,000 (at least) squatters. I personally have nothing against squatters, although I have seen several squatters driving mercs and beamers, but maybe that’s why they can afford those cars.  

Kampung Baiduri sits on the border of Section 51A, one of the major industrial centres of Petaling Jaya, with major international companies like Malaysian Oxygen, Fima Metal Box, Rank O’Connor, Cycle and Carriage Industries and Johnson Suisse, just to name a few. On the fringes of Kampung Baiduri are a few rows of single storey terrace houses, a little housing estate of sorts.

Yummy smells!
Recently, I had to take my car in to fix at a little motor workshop in Section 51A. The field oppositie the little workshop had an interesting selection of rubbish and flies, lending a rich and aromatic scent to the area (see pics above). Actually, the clogged drains also enhanced the luscious smell around me. I wish smells can be depicted on the Internet, for the sake of my readers. 
I opted to walk back home, just to see what was happening at Kampung Baiduri. Along the way, I found a few quiet green areas with playgrounds (pics above). I like playgrounds, actually, they remind me of my childhood, when going down to Taman Jaya was such a treat. It’s great that most housing estates have one or two playgrounds, like this one.
Anyway, I came to the road where the properly-built houses turned to makeshift ones, and discovered that the settlement really has been razed to the ground. Where once were many wooden houses built higgledy piggedly, now was just empty land, with bulldozers and tractors and lorries smoothening out the waste (pics below). Interestingly, alongside the wasteland were one or two little huts left standing, I think an electrical fixing store and a barber, and a few eating stalls. They stand a little ludicriously against the backdrop of dry earth and waste (pics above) .

Can You Name Those Buildings?

Semi-torn down shacks left standing on the fringes of the settlement
Shooting up from the wasteland are interesting pink, orange, green and blue buildings, housing flats for the former squatters to live in. This is, I suppose, Kampung Baiduri’s facelift. I suppose the eradication of possible unsanitary and unhealthy living environs of the illegal squatter settlement is a good thing, esp with the reported malnutrition in Malaysian squatter settlements. Truth be told, aside from the eyesore, many of us were a bit concerned that possible criminal activities stem from, or take place in, these settlements. This notwithstanding, it will take some getting used to, the flattened ground and the easter-egg coloured flats.

While walking back, I was amused with the smallest roundabout in the world (that I know of – pic below). This tends to confuse motorists, because some think of it as a little tiled bump in the middle of the road, and do not follow the traffic rules for roundabouts. Others follow the roundabout rules, and irritate those not in-the-know. While the rest, being loving Malaysian motorists, just consider that it’s always their right of way, whatever the circumstance. 

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

The well-known Dato’ Haji Kamuruddin mosque (left pic below) is on the fringes of Kampung Baiduri, right by the teeny tiny roundabout, and along the rows of interesting single storey terrace houses, a rare housing option nowadays (right pic below)

Heart of the City – Jalan Chin See Kee

In Travel on 04/06/2005 at 20:50
A friend of mine lives in Jalan Chin See Kee, and he was having an arts festival (entitled “One Nite Stand”) at his home/gallery (“Space Spirit Studio”) recently. I decided to do a little story on the place, considering how lax I’ve been with updating this blog, and also because it really is quite a nice place, like a little pocket of quiet in heart of the city. Firstly, one thing you should never do is work your shoulders and arms out before taking photos. Thankfully, most of the shots turned out alright, although there are a number of really bad ones which didn’t end up on this blog. No one shall see them ever!

Anyway, I parked my car some distance away from his home, at the end of the street, close to the “City Apartments” (left pic). I’m not too sure whether I’d like to live at this end, what with the towering new development at this end of the street. However, I might want to mention that this street might well be the next “hot” area to be developed, kind of like Tingkat Tong Shin, possibly. Who knows… 
Jalan Chin See Kee
There are just two residential streets in this little cul-de-sac, Jalan Chin See Kee and Jalan Galloway. I wonder how old these houses are, but they look post 2nd World War, not that old, but still quite full of character – with tall ceilings, large windows, and cute little pocket yards in front. The houses along Jalan CSK have a lived-in look about them, each of them appearing to have a personality of their own, whereas the houses along Jalan Galloway are more uniform and clean-looking.  

I love this area because of the packs of dogs around. They look really happy, and remind me of the dogs I saw in Bangkok. Some of them appear underfed, but there is no cowed nature or unhappiness about them. Most of them live either on the little lane joining the two streets, or in the vast open space which houses a car park behind the mamak stalls on Jalan Galloway. I think there is a motor repair shop there too, and possibly even some martial arts practice or something, because I saw these (right pic) and I have no clue what they are for.

Mamak Stall on Jalan Galloway (pic below for huge rubbish dump behind it)

Houses on Jalan Galloway

Facing Jalan Galloway is the back of the Police Headquarters (right pic below), rumoured to have had a number of suicides from its rooftop decades ago (but I’m not sure how true this is). From the street, you can now see Berjaya Times Square (in which I have not placed my feet yet). Access to Jalan Alur and Tingkat Tong Shin is pretty easy from this area too. Despite being so close to Jalan Pudu and Jalan Imbi, the area was really quite and still as a mouse. While squatting to take the photos, it was almost like the huge trees were whispering in the twilight.
I like the idea that my friend, C, had his house open to the public, to just step in and watch theatre if they wanted. From the street, I could see that something was going on, and it seemed quite bohemian to me to just leave your friend door open for anyone to walk in to watch a play. He had lighted candles in his front yard, and their flames made the whole area almost dream-like and surreal. A little table in the front featured a press release and other promo material. Unfortunately for me, the play (pics below) was in Mandarin, so I couldn’t understand a word (well, I understood a few words, but what good is a few words?). It was an interesting setup and had a reasonable turn-out.

The play was put up by Seng Shoo Ming. Despite not understanding a word, it seemed pretty intense. There was conversation among the four main players, and there was bondage with masking tape. There was throwing of water, and painting of people. There was also decorating of walls and floors, and after everything, there was a question and answer session. Hopefully, there will be more of these events happening on Jalan Chin See Kee.

PJ New Town

In Travel on 12/05/2005 at 12:34
Image hosted by Photobucket.comBeing a PJ boy, I got plenty of exposure to PJ New Town, or PJ State as it’s otherwise known. PJ New Town is a small commercial centre close to the Federal Highway, a bit further off from PJ Old Town. An interesting fact is that the first PJ settlements were around PJ Old Town, because it was close to the one and only road from Klang to Kuala Lumpur – the Old Klang Road. Of course, once the Federal Highway opened up, the settlements expanded from PJ Old Town towards the highway, which led to the development of PJ New Town. 
Image hosted by Photobucket.com Image hosted by Photobucket.com
PJ Old Town – where old juxtapose the new   

Image hosted by Photobucket.comOnce upon a time a traffic horror, PJ New Town has quite a lot to offer now, with a streamlined traffic system and a new parking complex inside the town centre itself, and one just outside. As with most other commercial and shopping areas in Malaysia, food features prominently throughout the town centre. Eateries like “Karak Chicken Rice” (massively overpriced although relatively tasty – right pic), “Secret Recipe” (the Chocolate Marshmallow Cake is highly recommended), “Sri Melaka” (no comment), “Chutneys” (northern Indian food), a number of very popular Chinese restaurants and fast-food chains “Kentucky Fried Chicken” and “Pizza Hut” sit along the square. I find myself buying Chinese food to-go from a popular open air Chinese coffee shop facing the MPPJ tower (left pic below). I was introduced to the Black Pepper U-Don, which initially used to taste great, but the standard seems to be dropping recently.

Image hosted by Photobucket.com Image hosted by Photobucket.com
I remember having to come here as a child, my mother used to love the second hand book shops which are still around. Of course, the price of books have sky-rocketed, but these shops seem to be able to survive, despite more people opting not to read, or to go to the “Pay Less Books” franchise. I used to love just digging through the heaps of books, looking for some special treat. I might have been older when I really began looking through these book shops. Now and then, I still find a rare Graham Masterton or Brian Lumley treasure.  

Image hosted by Photobucket.comThere used to be cinema in the area, from which the area’s secondary name “State” is derived. Fortunately for the centre’s heritage, the State cinema was not torn down, like Lido (?) in Brickfields, but now converted into an Indian eatery, “Lotus” (left pic). I was told this is not the famed “Lotus” restaurant, because the eatery is based on a cafeteria concept, but who knows? I remember State fondly, the last movie I watched there was “Dying Young” with two friends from A levels. An open secret: we cried buckets during the movie.

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

A lot of governmental bodies are based in PJ New Town now. Aside from the PJ local authority (MPPJ), we have the National Registration Department and the road and traffic authority (JPJ) in the vicinity. The piece de resistance is the huge MPPJ tower (pic above), which can be seen from most parts of the older PJ areas. The building stands erect in square’s centre, with a paved area around the building (pic below). I’m not too sure what the building houses, because an older and classier building outside the square (featuring the MPPJ clock tower – pic further below) houses the local authority administration office. 

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Mini Park before the MPPJ Headquarters
Image hosted by Photobucket.comPJ New Town is slowly becoming hip in a quiet way though. Two little cafes, both quite popular, have opened up. I just discovered these cafes, and I have to say, I find them really pleasant. The pricing obviously caters to students or poor writers, like me, but it’s good value for money. Sitting under the trees on a breezy evening with a cold coffee is really quite enjoyable. Working here is great too (unless you’re WiFi dependant).  

While mooching around after a haircut at Standard Male (recommended by Benji Bonkers), I discovered that unlike most public art displays, the fountain at the PJ New Town three-quarter roundabout is actually quite nice. Based on a rectangular design, the black stone piece impressed me more than the strange pewter/metallic clock-like art structures on other PJ roundabouts. I couldn’t get a shot of it from the front, so I hope the following shots from the side will suffice.

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Well, with the new cafes popping up (with quite a number of Fitness First and Clark Hactch members sitting around, I noted), and interesting new commercial concepts like “Standard Male” popping up, maybe PJ New Town might get more pulling power. I know I certainly end up there a lot, mainly because my bank is there. So after withdrawing money, it’s quite easy to get a haircut or to get a quick takeaway for dinner.

Food Adventures on Jalan Peel

In Travel on 12/04/2005 at 11:51
Things have been really busy for me recently. Work has piled up, and I haven’t even had much time to respond to e-mails. Unfortunately, my blog has suffered because of this. I hope to be a little bit more diligent though, and I hope you’ll bear with me for the time being.  

Anyway, a friend recently brought me, on two seperate occassions, to eat around the Jalan Peel area of Cheras. The first time was for a nice home cooked meal along the make-shift huts. There was a whole row of them, but only one or two seemed popular. The food was pretty good, and from what I remember, pretty affordable too. Because it was weekday night, the roads were clear. Pictures below:

Image hosted by Photobucket.com Image hosted by Photobucket.com
The Stalls
Image hosted by Photobucket.com Image hosted by Photobucket.com
The Quiet Streets

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Okay, not so quiet streets…
The second occassion was more recent. I’m not too sure if it was along Jalan Peel, but it was in the vicinity. This was a corner coffee shop, with stalls along the whole row of shoplots (which had closed for the day). The shoplots are situated opposite Carrefour in Cheras, alongside the road leading to the St. John’s Ambulance building.  

According to my friend, C (you should know him by now), everything was good. I decided to order the ‘mee rebus’, something he hadn’t tried as yet. It was fantastic! Aside from that, we both shared some satay and grilled chicken wings, both highly recommended. All the stalls were busy though, so I think everything there must be quite good.

Behind the shoplots were nice old government houses. These were really quite charming, and I certainly hope they won’t be torn down in the name of ‘progress’. I tried to get some photos, but traffic was too busy. There is the one though, but that’s an example of bad photography.

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Yumminy Cricket!  

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

How to not take a photograph!

The Suburbs #2 – SS1, PJ

In Travel on 17/03/2005 at 11:13
I am one of those few Klang Valley dwellers who has not moved his entire life. Well, yes, I have lived in various parts of the world, for studies and medium-term travelling holidays, but my home has always been in SS1, Petaling Jaya. In an amusing way, a lot of KL and PJ people don’t have a clue where SS1 is. “Is it near SS2?” is the response I usually get. Well, yes, SS1 is right next to SS2, and is obviously an older section of town compared to SS2. Tucked away after the light industrial area of Jalan 222 and the cowboy towns of sungei way (piece of trivia: ‘SS’ stands for ’sungei way-subang’), SS1 is largely overlooked because there isn’t much in it, aside from houses and the primary school. 

When I was younger, my parents used to take my brother and I for walks after dinner along the nearby roads. I remember in those days, the area used to have quite a large number of ex-pats. Alliance Francais used to have a branch nearby, and the neighbourhood also housed the Deutsche Schule (although both not in directly in SS1). As time went by, they moved out, but the houses mostly remained the same. My area was developed mostly by the government coop, with prices of houses astoundingly cheap (let’s just say, cheaper than a kancil even when my parents bought this house). Many of my neighbours have stacked stories over the initial one-level bungalows they bought. Some had aesthetically good results, while most of the rest have had dire consequences. One of my neighbours has been trying to sell their home for years, but I think buyers are reluctant because the only thing they can do is tear the unsightly constructs and rebuild a new home on the plot of land. 

As I grew up, I explored my neighbourhood more and more, mostly on my bicycle. My dogs now have the benefit of my knowledge, as I take them on long walks (designed to tire them out). Most of SS1 is on higher ground, with a clear view of Paramount and the elevated LRT track nearby (pic above). On clear nights, you can even see Genting Highlands, but it’s been awhile since the haze and dust has settled. As mentioned, most of the houses were originally single-storey bungalows, but some have been made into gargantuan monstrosities, while others have retained their initial aesthetic integrity. Some people bought several plots of land, building huge houses (left pic below), with underground car parks and all (right pic below). Some others have renovated their homes into interesting little creations, with traditional Malay elements, or clean straight retro lines (pics further below).
The roads are generally quiet, with trees lining both sides of the grass on the road shoulder. It usually is breezy along these streets, which are generally clear of cars parked willy-nilly along the side. My dogs and I usually have the luxury of hogging the entire road, with little concern of cars driving at top speed, despite there being no speed bumps or judder bars or anything impeding the speed of motor vehicles. Motorists are of a different breed here, possibly. All in all, it makes for an interesting walk around my neighbourhood at dusk (or at night – pics below).

Once upon a time, this area had one of the few skating rinks in the Valley (which I knew of). My brother and I used to trudge up with our skates once in a blue moon. Slowly, footballers took over the rink, and finally drug addicts. Now the rink has made way for a new mosque (pics below). When it was being built, I thought it was a block of condominiums – I hadn’t thought there’d be a mosque, considering how close the surau is – pic further below). Right next to the mosque, there is a new playground. An observation: playgrounds in the Klang Valley seem to lack good big trees.

When I’m all grown up, and have tons of money, I’d like to buy a house somewhere in the neighbourhood.
One of the more interesting houses I’ve seen.

Me Big!

Me Bigger!

Me Biggest!

One of the older houses with minor, or no renovations. Nice, no?

 

 

A slice of orange sponge cake, anyone?

Me dogs doing their thing…

While other dogs watch!

A gripe: why do they dig up a little trench in the road, fill it up like this, then have to fill it in again in a month’s time? It’s bad for the car, makes my CD skip, and you know what? Bangkok does not have these trenches on their roads!

 

Detour – Thailand 05

In Travel on 25/02/2005 at 22:47
I had great plans for a wonderful blog on Thailand, when I discovered I was to go earlier this year. It has been ages since I visited there: I was nine the last time I was in Bangkok, and I was fifteen the last time I was in Hat Yai. I hadn’t been to anywhere else in Thailand, and this trip included Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.   

The idea of the trip, however, was vastly different from the actual experience. The trip was very rushed: we zoomed from B to Chiang Rai, took a van from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai, then took the van back to Chiang Rai again, and flew down to Bangkok again, all within the space of four days. The last few quiet days in Bangkok were spent mostly catching up with friends and relatives. So I did not really get much of an opportunity to view majestic sweeping Siamese temples, or go chugging down the river, or visit pin pong shows, unfortunately.

So a full-fledged blow-by-blow might have to wait until I get to go again on my own, with my own itinary. But here are my observations and thoughts on my recent holiday in Thailand:   

The Bangkok International Airport reminds me a little of our Subang Jaya airport (now unfortunately demolished), although perhaps a little bit better maintained. I was actually surprised how orderly things are, definitely not as much of a mess when I was nine (yes, I do remember!). We passed through Customs and Immigration with no problem (part of me still has a cold-sweat kind of fear, after my ordeal at Dover, which is another story entirely). Huge signs warn visitors that insulting the Customs officer is an offence punishable by law. Interesting.

Queues and Traffic: Queues in Bangkok are generally fast-moving and courteous. The ones who mess up queues tend to be white people, who apparently have this thing called “white power” in Thailand. More on that privately, if you like.

Traffic was great as well. I recall when I was nine sitting in the taxi with my parents for close to three hours in traffic moving forward and inch every 20 minutes or so in Bangkok. I remember I was sticky, irritable and my eyes were watering from the dust. I was pleasantly surprised at the swift smooth flowing traffic on the motorway, which allowed us a speedy journey to Sukhumvit, on which our hotel was situated.

After paying the two separate tolls, we got into the kind of Bangkok traffic I recalled so fondly. However, motorists were just so courteous and considerate, especially compared to Malaysian drivers. There were no motorists forcing themselves into other lanes. There was no horning at all. When someone wanted to change lanes, they politely signalled, and the motorist in the other lane would politely wait. A friend later told me that there were even special rules for giving way: flash your headlights once to say “I’m coming and you better not get in my way” and flash twice to say “Oh, do go ahead, I’ll slow down for you”. Amazing. Malaysia might have the worst motorists in the region after all. Perhaps that’s something to put in the Malaysia Book of Records…

Food Stalls:   

I found food stalls a bit odd in Bangkok. They tend to be mobile, so if you find a good noodle stall at, say, 9pm, it might not be there at 11pm on another day, or even there at all during the daytime. However, when they do move, it’s usually nearby. I found the eating culture there different from Malaysia and Singapore, where we tend to be eating at all times, and food is always available, practically at every corner of every street. Sukhumvit, apparently one of the busiest streets in Bangkok, had pockets of eating places after midnight, but nothing compared to say, Jalan Alor in Kuala Lumpur. Adjacent ’soi’s (or lanes) didn’t bear much fruit when I went out exploring one early morning. I might add that food at these stalls apparently have a three-price tier: white-man’s price; non white-man foreigner price; and local price.

Elephants on Bangkok’s Streets:

This had to be one of the most charming things I came across while in Bangkok. On the very day of my arrival, I was just so excited that I was in a new city in a country I hadn’t been to for awhile, that I went out on the streets looking for Thai adventures to be had. I was so busy looking about the street, I nearly bumped into a baby elephant sauntering by. My cousin, who has spent a large portion of his life in Thailand, said that elephants are brought out at night, sometimes for carriage, sometimes as tourist rides, although most times it was illegal. Later on during the trip, I saw many elephants along Sukhumvit, although none were infants. Apparently, as time goes on, more and more elephants end up out of jobs. However, as the recent tsunami disaster has shown, elephants are very intelligent and handy animals to have around.   

Sukhumvit:

Yes, there’s nothing really like the streets of Bangkok. There are shrines at every corner, there are stalls selling all manner of things. There were t-shirts, paperweights, souvenirs, sandals, shoes, candles, lamps, teak ware, stuff made from rattan, makeshift tattoo parlours, CDs, VCDs, DVDs, and old men asking me if I were interested in body-to-body massages, ping-pong shows, karaoke etc. It was a lot to take in for the first few minutes. Along the streets were mostly tailors, like this trendy “Versaces”. The streets were generally much cleaner than I remembered them to be, apparently part of the city’s clean-up bid since 1997. And I didn’t see a single rat on the street, but who’s to know. 

Stray Dogs:   

These seem to live in the lap of luxury in Thailand. Most of them seem well-fed, most of them are actually fed by stalls or shops, few of them are mangy, and most of them had all their hair. Some of them, I have to admit, limped, or had crooked ears. But what I do know was very different about Thai stray dogs, compared to Malaysian ones, was that none of them had an air of fear about them, none of them avoided humans, unlike here in Malaysia. Stray dogs in Thailand look like they have a good deal. Alternatively, Thailand has better animal rights education than Malaysia.

Other observations:

I love the stuff they sell on the streets. I had the impression that there was nothing I wanted or needed or intended to buy in Thailand, but I brought back a fair amount of clothes, as well as some lamps for my new flat. Things in Chiang Mai are obviously cheaper, and also of greater variety. Unfortunately, I did not make it to Chatuchak Market, although I did make it to the Mah Bu Kong (?) or the MBK Centre, which was fairly interesting. I need more time to explore next time around.

The Sky Train was really convenient, with stops close to each other, and about eight exits/entrances into each station, making things really easy for commuters. Putra LRT (and more so the monorail!) could take a lesson from the Bangkok Sky Train. Multi-level highways: like nothing I’ve seen before, winding to the left, winding to the right, just incredible.

I was amazed at how much of the Hindu culture has seeped into Thai culture. This is a nation largely comprising of Buddhists, yet their temples, shrines and buildings are decorated with creatures as spooky as these:

The food was delicious, and any other thing I might want to write on it will do it no justice.
Well… that’s about it then. Actually, there’s probably a lot more. Thailand is such a colourful country, and a whole essay can go into one’s experience just walking down a single street. But there was so much going on when I went, and we were constantly rushing around, and then later on, recuperating from rushing around. I hope to get back to Thailand at some point soon.

Decorative Yet Scary Monster Chicken on Bangkok’s Road Dividers

 

 

 

Canal in Chiang Mai

 


Hot Springs At A Rest Stop Between Chiang Mai & Chiang Rai

Posh Restaurant Cum Art Gallery In Bangkok

Brickfields #1

In Travel on 03/02/2005 at 16:52
With Christmas around, there’s hardly been anyone home in the daytime as we have been pretty busy. I found an express mail delivery failure note in my post box recently, and gamely went down to the Poslaju office in Brickfields (which opens until 8pm, a very clever move on Pos Malaysia’s part) after work. I was supposed to meet up with a friend, I-Boy, with whom I was to have dinner, in the KL Sentral open car park, next to the Poslaju. I marvelled at how different Brickfields is now, compared to ten years ago. It used to be a quiet (but traffic-wise congested) railway quarters area, with a nice cinema and good Indian food, and interesting places of worship.

The food is still alright (Restoran Seng Kee [?] has some really good Chinese food) and the places of worship are still there. However, some of the old quaint railway quarters, as well as the old cinema, have been torn down to make way for development. Now, the epicentre of Brickfields is the looming Sentral station, and hotels Hilton and Meridian (pic above). New condos have been built nearby (left pic) and most shops have jumped on the bandwagon and renamed themselves to “Hotel Sentral”, “Kedai Runcit Sentral” etc. It’s unsurprising that the little pathway between the monorail and the train station now features little tents selling all manners of wares for commuters (pics below).

A good thing about Sentral’s opening is that the row of shoplots directly opposite have been spruced up, although those just a few metres away have opted to stick to their old world charm. I-Boy and I took a walk south-west towards the old centre of Brickfields, featuring the good old Sinar Kota supermarket and the now busy intersection, with traffic coming from Mid Valley Megamall, Taman Seputeh and Bangsar converging. The great thing is that, during the development, the authorities did not cut down the big beautiful trees right in the centre of this busy junction (pic below). 

On the southern side of the junction is an old beautifully green field on which football is played every evening (pic below). The field has beautiful old railway quarters [Ed: I have been corrected; these are old government quarters, the old railway quarters were torn down to make way for the Sentral Station]. on two of its side. I love these old buildings, although they are not much too look at when one drives by. However, up close and personal, the buildings have such character and charm (pics below), it would be a pity if anyone decides to tear them up for condos or some such. Unfortunately, the alley was a bit of an eyesore (and more of a nose-sore – pic below). 

We walked a bit further down to Jalan Rozario, where the Vivekananda Hostel (Ashrama) is located (pics below). This building has been beautifully maintained, amidst the dusty developmnent of Brickfields. It is a really old building, 100 years old now, with a statue of Vivekananda (I assume) in front. The lawns are clipped and tidy, and the building painted elegantly.
Further down the road was my old school, Vivekananda. Actually, I should qualify that I was in this school for a total of three days while waiting for my transfer to another school. It was fun though, those three days. Unfortunately, the school is now a horrendous salmony peachy pink (left pic). We turned southwest on the Jalan Sultan Abdul Samad intersection, and headed towards the Lutheran church (left pic below). Built in 1924, it has been beautifull maintained, and is quite an interesting church, with a belfry seperate from the rest of the structure (right pic below). 
I decided to take the left turning on to Jalan Berhala. There were some nice old flats on the right side (pics below), looking like they too have had good upkeep through the years. Interestingly, these flats looked busy, with people coming and going and cars pulling up into parking spots almost as soon as they had been vacated. Next to the flats was Lavanya’s Christmas Bazaar. It looked like they were closing for the day, but I could be wrong. Right next to the Lutheran church, and opposite these flats, I discovered that there was a school right there, something I wasn’t aware of up till then. It looked like a private schooled, called “Sekolah Rendah Sri Sempurna”.
The famous Brickfields Buddhist temple is right next to this school. It really is quite a nice set of buildings, with huge domes and statues, and a lotus centrepiece (pics below). We walked all the way to the Klang River (pic further below), where we could see that the Federal Highway was actually quite smooth flowing, despite its being around 7pm, which is still considered part of rush hour. There were quite a few nice houses along the banks of the river (one of which – pics even further below).

My growling stomach told me it was time to give up exploring, and we had some pretty good food at Seng Kee (?) to cap off the evening.

Detour – Kuching 04 #3

In Travel on 25/01/2005 at 16:24
We decided to take it easy the next day. I was feeling quite washed out from the day before, especially the amount of running I did in the rain. So we just had a very very lazy breakfast, then I took my camera down to the town centre to explore. 

One of the first things I saw when I came into town on the first day was a nicely done-up shoplot called the Red bookshop. I made my way down there, just to see what’s what. There was a write-up on the book store in the newspaper, and I was keen to see what kind of books they were offering there. The shop, as with all the others, was done up really nicely inside and out (pic above). The selection of books were quite good, especially for the size of the store. The prices were not any different from Kuala Lumpur’s prices, unfortunately.  

After browsing inside awhile, I walked along outside. I found that the body decoration culture was a bit more sophisticated than that in KL. Many young guys (and some old ones) were sporting massive and ornate tattoos, and there were quite a number of tattoo parlours concentrated in the shopping area around Lebuh Wayang and Lebuh Temple.

I went into a grocery store along Lebuh Wayang to get a cold canned drink, and ended up speaking to the shop owner, a friendly elderly Chinese gentleman. I expressed my admiration of how beautifully the shops were refurbished, and how much character Kuching had. He said he had his grocery store open for more than 60 years. He added that most of the shops were owned by the Anglican church nearby, and he pointed me to the right direction to the cathedral.

After walking for slightly more than 500m, pass the girls’ school and around the corner, I came across the cathedral. Sitting on top of hill, it was one of those structures now called “retro”, with typically clean lines and uncluttered look (pics above). It was surrounded by lots of green, and looked quite lush at certain angles. The church faced Kuching’s Central Padang (or field), and the whole area has been maintained beautifully. Right opposite Merdeka Palaca & Hotel Suites is a phenomenally large tree (left pic above) on the field. It’s just huge. The hotel has an interesting boat next to its swimming pool (pic, or see here).
I decided to keep the other sights for later, and went into the church, which had quite an awesome entrance (pic above), with a large grand staircase leading up to the building. Although an obviously recent building, the church has maintained many architectural traditions of the church. There was a representation of Christ on the cross on the left of the entrance of the building (pic below). I have never seen this in an Anglican church, although St. Thomas is likely to be high anglican (much like my own church in Kuala Lumpur). 

I went inside the church, and was in wonder of the beauty of it. It had beautiful clean lines, symmetrical and tidy, which made me a little sad since it was such an obvious contrast to the state of the Anglican church worldwide. The sanctuary had statues of Jesus on the cross, with Mary and St. John on his sides (pic below). If I’m not mistaken (and I could well be), the church was not built in the traditional cross-shaped, but with a rounded sanctuary (but I stress, I could be mistaken!). The windows and the stain glass had traditional elements, but less ornate, displaying that less can sometimes be more. I prayed for awhile, and took a few more pictures, before heading out to the Central Padang. 

Around the padang are quite a number of landmarks as well, like the police station, built in 1931 (left pic below), and the mosque built in 1962 over the original wooden structure (built in 1852 – right pic below). I walked around the field, still marvelling at the giant tree, and headed towards the museum.
I went into the new wing first, which had an photo exhibition on Sarawak and Kuching, with which I was quite impressed. I crossed the bridge over the busy road to the original museum structure, originally built in 1891 in the style of a Normandy town-house. This museum apparently has the most comprehensive collection of Borneon artefacts, although I personally found the structure small. There were bones of whales on display, but the highlight of the museum for me was the breathtakingly beautiful designs on the ceiling on the upper floor (pics below).
From the museum, I made my way down to Little India and the main market area of Kuching. Being a Sunday, everyone was out and about, and the shopping complexes and market place was bustling (pics above). Little India was a pedestrain mall between two rows of preserved shoplots, most of which sold fabric and clothes. At the market end of the bazaar is a little arch (left pic below), and likewise halfway through the bazaar is a little ornate arch in front of one of the shops (right pic below). I didn’t get to see much else because it began to rain again. Fearing my health (and lack of vitamin C), I grabbed a cab back to the hotel to have some rest before RFD and I went on the Sunset River Cruise that evening. 
At around 5pm, we headed out to the river bank to catch the cruise down the river. We made it on time, paid the RM45 and headed upstairs (we were told that there was a “private function” on the lower deck). The upper deck was already quite full, apparently a bunch of French tourists had come on board as part of their tour package. However, it was breezy on the upper deck, and we found two good seats further back from the stage, and close to the tour guides. 

The commentary was conducted in French and English, and was pretty insightful. We passed Fort Margherita and the Astana (pic above) on the other side. We probably would not have time to visit those landmarks, and I was glad to get a closer look at them. The Astana (or palace) was built as a bridal gift from Charles Brooke (the second white rajah) for his second bride. Completed in 1870, it is now the residence of the state’s governer. Fort Margherita was built as a defensive structure on a vantage point of the river. Named after Brooke’s second wife, the building now houses the police museum. The side on which the Astana and Fort Margherita are is called Kuching North, and the side on which the older part of the city is on is called Kuching South. From what I can tell, Kuching South is the older section, with the new commercial and administrative hub in Kuching north.
Peppered around both banks of the river are little malay villages (pics above). If I heard correctly, there is an island in the middle of the river called “Petra Jaya”, which confused RFD, who asked “Shouldn’t it be Putra Jaya?”. We saw lots of fishermen, some boys just fishing for fun. Some fishermen were pulling in their nets for the day. There were many jetties along the way, including the old James Brooke port, which looked abandoned to me, but apparently is still being used to train seamen. 

View of Khatulistiwa Cafe from the cruise boat

Halfway through the river cruise, we were treated to an ethnic dance (left pic). I wasn’t paying much attention, but I knew the first dance wasn’t really done that well (or rather, I had seen better). It was good though, catering more to the foreign tourist, rather than to me. The cruise dragged a bit after this, although the weather is fine, breezy and slightly warm. Cruising along the river in the twilight was really exceptionally relaxing.

Twilight on the cruise boat

After the cruise, we walked around the older parts of Kuching, and ended up in the James Brooke cafe for a drink. It really was an elegent place, with actually very fair prices. We sat, and mulled, and laughed, and basically enjoyed the cool airy atmosphere of the open structure set among the trees.

James Brooke Cafe

We sauntered back along the river bank, had a good dinner, and I retired with my book (and he his laptop) for the day. The next day, our last, was a bit of a disappointment. We had planned to take it even easier than the day before, but we had little choice but to do absolutely nothing since it was pouring the whole day. We sat back in Coffee Bean (adjacent to the hotel) with our book and laptop (respectively) and waited for our plane out. 

By the time we had to leave for the airport, we were actually quite bored, a bit damp, and a little antsy to leave. Traffic to the airport was bad, and the airport itself was surprisingly congested outside, and packed inside (there is some construction going on in front of the airport). Although I would love to go back to Kuching some day, the last day was just so long and wet and tedious, I know I, for one, was grateful when I was finally seated and buckled in my Air Asia seat, heading for home.

Detour – Kuching 04 #2

In Travel on 16/01/2005 at 15:05
The next morning, we woke up at a decent hour, and headed out for brunch. I dashed out to a little traffic junction nearby, just to take a photo of another cat monument (“Kuching” means “cat” in English). There is a cat monument right in front of the hotel, and just two streets down was the other cat monument (left and right pics below respectively). We just mooched around leisurely for the rest of the mid-morning until it was time for us to take a bus down to the Semenggok Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre. 
Kuching is actually a very organised city. The Tourist Information Centre down by the Main Bazaar had wonderful little maps of the city and outskirts, with tables and bus schedules. The city has also provided a free hop-on/hop-off bus within the city to tourist destinations. 

We had planned to take the bus out to Semenggok. On the way to the bus stop, we walked through Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg, passing by the entire length of the Courthouse, passing the Little Lebanon restaurant (pic above). Right after that was the Round Tower. The reason for its construction is apparently a “mystery” (according to the tourist information pamphlet). The pamphlet suggests that perhaps it was built as a fortress, due to its design. On the other hand, I suppose it could have been constructed just to juxtapose the Square Tower. It was used as a dispensary, but now houses the a section of the Judicial Department. I managed to get a picture of the Round Tower later on in the evening (right pic). 

We passed the General Post Office, which has a pretty impressive facade, with its Corinthian columns (pic above). Right opposite it is the Pavillion, which was used as a hospital until 1947. It is quite an anomalous structure (pic below), a cross between colonial structure and late English renaissance like some houses found in the southern states of the USA. It is intriguing though, and I like it. 

We soon found the bus stop. It then hit me that we were supposed to take a public bus out of town to the forest reserve. For some strange reason, I had assumed it was a special bus meant just for tourists (and probably free-of-charge, like the city tourist ‘tram’). RFD said he would have thought the same. I didn’t mind so much, thinking I would get an opportunity to see the suburbs. However, because the bus was packed, I found I only had a view of the cars passing right next to the bus. I got a place eventually, and got into conversation with a nice man, who comes from Petaling Jaya originally, but is now settled in Kuching (with PR and work permit and all).  

We reached the Semenggok Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre (left pic) in about an hour, with the sky a deep angry grey-blue. This put us off balance, since it was swelteringly hot when we left the city, with our shirts sticking to our backs. A large building was being built at the entrance to the rehab centre, what I would hope to be some large tourist information place, with a cafe for tourists to rest a bit after the bus journey, and before the 1km (or so) trek into the orangutan feeding area. We paid the nominal entrance fee, and made our way into the forest reserve.

The tarred path cut through virgin rainforest, with some specially cultivated areas for particular fauna and flora (and signs indicating what they were – pic above). Another great thing about Kuching is the signage. Much like Singapore, almost everything is in English, with the occassional few signs in Malay. This makes so much sense to the tourist, most of whom did not have Malay 101 as an option at school (sarcasm is the lowest form of wit, I am aware, and for that – I apologise).

It began to drizzle, and RFD and I were running up and down the path (for it was slopey). Soon, the rain came down in torrents, which caused us to take refuge under the staff quarters, literally, since they were houses on stilts (pics above – that’s me in the right pic, fyi). We mulled around for slightly more than half an hour before the rain abated. We then made a quick dash to the animal sanctuary, finding the place quite crowded with people (we had seen a number of vans and cars driving in as we crouched under the staff quarters). It wasn’t yet orangutan feeding time, so we mooched around soggily, but there didn’t seem to be much else to see, or anyone to show us around (or any place to tell us what there was to see aside from the orangutans). So we ended up standing patiently for the gate to be open.
We didn’t have to wait long, the keeper (dressed in a long yellow raincoat, with big yellow galoshes) opened the gate, carrying a huge sack, and everyone made a beeline for the trail leading into the forest. The walk was muddy and slippery and the foliage was dripping wet, but we gamely soldiered on for about five minutes. Another surprise for me that day was that we didn’t get to sit and feed the orangutans (which I have seen on so many documentaries), but instead, we were led to a shelter with a platform in a distance. The keeper made his way to the platform, over a slippery looking log (left pic above), and laid out the fruit (mostly bananas and mangoes, I think) on the platform (right pic above). He then called out (I couldn’t make out what he was shouting), and left the platform. 

In a few minutes, we could see the top of the trees in the distance moving. Soon, we saw a shape moving on top of the trees. He peeked curiously down, then very gracefully moved down to the platform (pic above). This guy was huge! I was to later discover that his name was Ritchie, and was the dominant male in the pack. For a dominant male, he had a humble beginning, having been captured and abducted from the wild, and kept in a box for about eight years (I think). He was named after his rescuer.  

Anyway, Ritchie glanced nonchalantly towards the crowd of cheering and jeering humans, and then promptly sat down with his back towards the crowd. People are weird animals. Despite signs saying “keep quiet” etc, most of the crowd of calling and shouting, as if it were a tame dog’s attention they were trying to attract. One bright lady was even clapping her hands loudly in a concerted effort to get to see Ritchie’s face.

Soon, Ritchie’s mate (and child) came swinging from the trees). She was much smaller than him, and the baby was barely discernable because of the distance. She was a very respectful spouse, holding on to the vine (or possibly rope) with one foot on the platform for awhile, before getting comfortable. Another orangutan was hovering over the treetops. The keeper passed him a banana, and he scuttled up the tree quickly (probably scared off by the clapping lady). Apparently this fella was waiting for Ritchie and his mate to finish up before chowing down. 

Eventually, Ritchie’s mate left with her baby and four bananas in her mouth. Ritchie left about a minute or two after his mate left. Soon, the shy guy hovering above made his way down, as gracefully as Ritchie, to the platform. He stood with one leg on the platform, and one arm holding on to the vine (or rope), listening for awhile, before he began eating. His behaviour was really quite charming. He never let go of the vine, and his attitude was like “just one more, then I’ll go”, but he just kept on eating for a very long time. He was also pretty skilled at opening bananas with just one hand, quite amazing to watch.  

By this time, the throngs of people had left, and RFD and I decided to go as well. Instead of taking the bus home, we took the easy route and called a cab. The caretaker was really quite kind and called us a cab, seeing how wet we were (and dirty too, due to the mud, and the dust gathered on us from the bus). We reached our hotel in about fifteen minutes, and just had a break.

While reading the newspaper, there was a write-up on Little Lebanon, and we decided to have dinner there. We walked along the river walkway down to the Courthouse. Kuching at night is really quite charming, the lights along the river bank, and the lighted old buildings really lent a quiet peaceful atmosphere to the place. We passed by the Square Tower (pic above) and Courthouse and finally reached Little Lebanon. 

The restaurant itself was on the first floor of an annexe to the courthouse (I think – whatever it is, it is inbetween the Courthouse and the Round Tower). Sitting there on the balcony, looking down Lebuh Carpenter, I felt really quite relaxed. If only service had been better, and the food had suited my palate… 

On the way back from dinner, I showed RFD Bishopsgate, and we discovered even more quaint and beautifully refurbished shoplots along Lebuh Carpenter; some were little cafes, and also a tea house with a huge tea pot outside. Kuching just seems to have so many secrets to discover…

Detour – Kuching 04 #1

In Travel on 05/01/2005 at 13:08
Someone once said that there are only three cities in Malaysia worth visiting: Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Kuching. I had the good fortune to visit Penang this year, unfortunately before this blog began (although there was a mini write-up on it on my older blog minus photos). However, I managed to visit the third city worth visiting recently, Kuching, and I definitely was taken by its charm.  

RFD and I left for the airport mid-morning, via the KLIA Express from KL Sentral. I usually come back from the airport via the train, but I’ve never taken it from town to the airport. Of course, things seem a lot more exciting on the way out, and I noticed how much development there was going on in the Salak South and Bandar Tasik Selatan, Cheras (left pic).

I have never flown Air Asia before, or any other kind of budget airline, so this was another first for me. I was told many things, and everything was true: the free seating, and the mad rush to the gate to get good seats – all true. However, what I wasn’t expecting was the boredom. I never realised how much comfort played a part in flying, and how much the serving of drinks and meals actually fill in the time. Instead, I found myself staring into the leather seat ahead, bored out of my mind, wondering why one hour and forty minutes felt like five hours.

Saying that though, it was good value for money, in terms of flying, and the part of the journey when I was close to Kuching was great. We were flying low enough so I could see the sea and the islands (pic above). Once we got over land, I got a tremendous view of the Sarawak river winding like a huge snake through the tropical rainforest (pic below). Soon, a few dots of houses appeared, and the next thing I knew, we were landing. 

The airport is quite an experience as well. I was quite surprised that I had to fill in forms and go through Immigration, as if I were a foreigner to the country. Later on, I was even more surprised to find I had to get a work permit, should I wish to work in Sarawak. Apparently, all this is part of the deal northern Borneo made with peninsular Malaysia when they joined the country.  

The ride from the airport to Kuching town seemed long. Truth be told, I was really tired, having had a busy week. However, there was lots to see. Kuching is very much a cool green city, with lots of trees. There are also lots of artpieces in public spaces, like this welcoming metal hornbill sculpture (right pic). The roads were small and narrow, which meant that most of them were designated one-way to ease traffic tension. And the most charming thing I found within the city itself was how well they preserved and maintained their old buildings and shoplots (but more of that later).

We got to our hotel, Holiday Inn, located on Kuching’s riverfront within half an hour or so after leaving the airport. The hotel was quite nice, although slightly old. The room was good, with some ethnic flavour (pics above), including a nice sketch of a headhunter, carrying a head! In no time, I had dumped my bags, and was off looking for a place to eat. Along the way, I couldn’t miss the huge ornamental cat monument right in front of the hotel. I also noticed that Kuala Lumpur isn’t the only place suffering traffic congestion (left pic below).
I found the Khatulistiwa Cafe within a stone’s throw of the hotel. It looked like a tourist trap, but the prices weren’t so bad. The building itself was shaped in a hut, with a club on the upper floor, and a restaurant on the ground floor. The restaurant was decorated with local ethnic masks and spears (right pic above), and was open and breezy, with a good view of the river (pic below). We both ended up having “Laksa Sarawak”, one of the famous local dishes. It was an interesting dish, which RFD believed to be “healthy”, although I am of a slightly different opinion. 

RFD later went back to the hotel to work, while I decided to just hit the streets of Kuching to see what’s what. The town is set in quite a hilly area (left pic above), with the river seperating its north and south regions. The riverbank (right pic above), a popular R&R spot for locals and tourist alike, is quite picturesqe, with stalls and hawkers selling food, drink and aphrodisiacs. Halfway through the walkway, I came across an elegent looking restaurant, called “The James Brooke Cafe” (pic below). Right across it, was the Chinese History Museum. 

The building in which the museum is housed is actually quite pretty, painted pale pink and set among tall green trees along the riverbank (pic below). The structure was built, with Charles Brooke’s consent, to accomodate the Chinese Court, established in 1911. The building was taken over by the government when the Chinese Court was dissolved in 1912, and later by the Sarawak Chinese General Chamber of Commerce in 1930. The museum has information and displays on the Chinese immigration into the state, and also background information the 8 major dialect groups. It was small enough for me to breeze through quickly (an exhibit in right pic). The security guard was friendly, and told me that there seemed to a number of KL-ites in town that weekend.

Inbetween the Chinese History Museum and the James Brooke Cafe was a main walkway with fountains featuring one of the many public art displays in the city (left pic). I’m not too sure what these are meant to be, but they appeared to me like storks. Right across the road is the Tua Pek Tong Temple (left pic below), one of the many temples in the narrow scenic streets of Kuching. As a matter of fact, just a few streets away, I found this brighter larger Chinese temple (right pic below).
There were many shops along the Main Bazaar catering to the tourist (right pic). Most of them sold souveniers, trinkets, t-shirts, traditional garb and ethnic statues and masks, while others were slightly high-end, like Artrageously Ramsay Ong. I loved the paintings and clothes he had on display, but I couldn’t really afford any of them. I also loved the way his gallery (and a number of other shops) had been designed. Some of them had little waterfalls inside the old airwell seperating the main shop and the backlot, while all of them utilised the upstairs as part of their shop/gallery. I think this is definitely one thing KL folk should pay attention to, rather than tearing down old shoplots, or painting them inelegent shades of pink and salmon.
Marvelling at the quaint charming shoplots along and slightly off the Main Bazaar (pics above), I came across signs pointing towards “Bishopsgate”. Curiously, there were signs all over the place, pointing towards some secret destination, signs which everyone else on the street seem to be ignoring. I just followed them doggedly, down through quiet streets, and little alleyways, until I finally came upon a little tiled square inbetween two rows of shophouses. There was a little old fashioned street lamp, wall with a plaque, proudly proclaiming that this was “Bishopsgate”, a litte piece of wall (pic below) which formerly was part of the gates leading to the Anglican mission, most of which had been torn down for development. I think it’s wonderful they’ve managed to retain that little bit of wall, make little signs to it like a little enigmatic tourist secret. Good one. 

After this, I just decided to walk up quickly to the main promenade along the riverbank, and came across the Square Tower (pic below). This is a tiny building, built in 1879 for prisoners’ detention. The square was apparently later converted into a fortress, then a dance hall. Today, it acts as a multimedia centre displaying Sarawak’s tourist attractions. 

Right across the street from the Square Tower is the Court House (pic below), an elegent building which reminds me of those old buildings in Singapore’s main colonial heritage area near the Singapore Padang. It was built in 1874 as an administrative block. State Council meetings were held there from that time, until as recently as 1973. It now houses the High Court, Magistrate’s Court and several governmental departments. The site on which the Court House sits used to be a missionary. 

Feeling tired, I walked back to the hotel, coming across even more public art pieces, on which children play. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get any other photos that day because my battery died. However, we didn’t do much else that evening, except to have dinner at an Italian restaurant (because both our tummies were a little upset, and needed something gentle and friendly), and tv in the hotel room.

In the lanes of Pudu

In Travel on 13/12/2004 at 12:16
Recently, C and I needed a place to have dinner and discuss future writing projects. We ended up just off Jalan Pudu, in a little rectangle enclosed by Jalan Pudu on the west, and Jalan Imbi in the north. To make it easier for the reader, we were near Shaw Parade (left pic) on Jalan Cangkat. I have sometimes driven through this area, and once upon a time, I had even walked here from Menara Promet to join a gym (it turns out to be Gold Gym – note: not Gold’s Gym!). In any case, we parked behind Shaw Parade, and I pulled out my trusty camera to take pictures of the neighbourhood. 
I love these quieter hidden areas of KL. There are so many interesting things tucked away in these recesses, like hidden secrets. There were the usual number of car and accessory shops (left pic above). Gold Gym (right pic above) was looking reasonably prosperous since the time I went in looking for a possible gym membership. From what I recall, it was a serious bodybuilding-type gym. And to prove my point, the sign on the window stated that aerobic classes were “for ladies only”. Aside from Gold Gym on Jalan Nyonya, I also disovered a martial arts place along Jalan Brunei Barat (right pic). 
Here and there, on the first floors and above in some shoplots, were a number of “Tempat Istirahat”, some of which had karaokes and pubs underneath (left pic above). “Tempat Istirahat” literally means “rest place”. I am told that these places are designed to help leave one’s worries behind, as it were. There were occassional touches of colour and individuality, like pic, which was the upper floor for a printing house (if I recall correctly). Further along Jalan Nyonya were large trees in front of the shoplots, lending the street a degree of elegence (left pic). Also along the street was a store housing “Pan Malaysian Acceptence”. I wonder what that is… As usual, there was some construction around the fringes of the area (right pic above). 
At twilight, and during the long Raya weekend, the place looked quite deserted (left pic above), despite its being a predominantly Chinese area. C and I took a walk from Jalan Nyonya down to Jalan Brunei Barat. The initial plan was to have steamboat along Jalan Cangkat, but C spotted this Hakka Yong Tow Foo store (right pic above) along Jalan Brunei Barat, from which delicious smells wafted. He became quite keen to have dinner there, so I agreed to, after we had taked a walk around the area. 

At the end of Jalan Brunei Barat was a little shop with loads of chickens, apparently kept as pets (according to C). One of those chickens (which looked unspectacular to me, but had interesting crests and tails) could cost to RM500 or more. Beyond the shop was a little parking area, around which were newer shops and buildings. We opted to turn left, towards Jalan Brunei Utara. We passed through dank wet and smelly alleys, and came across the rubbish heap in the pic above. Yes, it looks bad, but I can vouch that it smells far worse. Along the alley, I noticed that all the shoplots had the old-school spiral staircases (right pic) which I’ve always loved (picture of alley below). 

Dinner at the Hakka Yong Tow Foo place was an experience. The food was delicious, and I had seconds (which is unsurprising, really). Unfortunately, I discovered that the back of the store was quite dirty and smelly, having to pass it to and from the toilet. Furthermore, the shop was really noisy, being an air-conditioned and no smoking area. C and I decided to postpone our writing projects discussion until after dinner in a more conducive atmosphere. 

After dinner, C took me to the Purple Cane Tea Art in Shaw Parade (pic above). This also was a new experience for me too, since I had never been into a tea house before. The sales assistants were really quite friendly, and they had all manners of things related to tea. I thought what a great place for Christmas gifts (and sure enough, I did a little early Christmas shopping). There was a little theatrette behind the store for performances and the like (as the name suggests, the shop supports the arts). Adjacent to the theatrette was a litte restaurant (which was empty, I wonder whether the kitchen had closed for the evening).
Next to the tea store is an art gallery, “Art De Gallery”. I couldn’t really tell whether I would appreciate the exhibits, since the gallery was shut. However, the sculpture and painting in the front window (pics above) looked interesting. C and I took a little walk around Shaw Parade, which seemed chock full of travel agents. There was a little sale in the courtyard of the shopping mall (pic below). 

By that time, we felt we needed to really get down to work, so we had our work discussion of McDonald’s ice-cream, after which we called it a night.

Detour – Singapore 04 (Part 3)

In Travel on 05/12/2004 at 04:35
The Singapore Night Safari is not close to civilisation. There is no MRT leading directly to it, or even close to it. I would have to get off at Ang Moh Kioh and take a public from there. I asked the hotel receptionist and a few other hotel people, and got differing opinions as to how much a taxi would cost from Albert Court Hotel, ranging from SGD15 to SGD25. Truth be told, I was quite knackered and couldn’t really bear the thought of leaving two hours earlier to take the MRT. So I relaxed at the hotel until six in the evening (I was due to be there at 7pm). Unfortunately, I hadn’t reckoned with the fact that it was six in the evening on a Saturday before Deepavali. As I stood outside the hotel waiting for a cab, I began to wonder whether I ought to call the Night Safari people to tell them I would be late. I eventually managed to get a taxi. It cost SGD12, and I reached there in about fifteen minutes, surprisingly. 

It was twilight when I reached the Night Safari, and the place was quite busy and bustling. I was ushered in with great courtesy (because I was “press”), and had a great buffet dinner (cheers, STB!). I ate leisurely, I wanted to catch the show, which was on every hour (or so). I made the eight o’clock show without having to rush (although some kiasu/kan cheong types – sorry, I don’t know the English translation for this – rushed by me). The show was in a little sunken ampitheatre some distance from the restaurant. I had to pass by the tram stop through a long covered path (left pic below). Within minutes of my arrival, the seats were all taken (right pic below). Some members of the audience were really fickle, changing seats every two minutes or so. If one goes to enough shows, one would know never to sit in the first few rows, unless one is keen on participating.
After a few minutes, the PA came on and it was announced that the show would start soon, and would the audience kindly refrain from using flash photography, since that would disturb the creatures. Aside from this, there were huge signs practically everywhere warning people that flash photography was not allowed in any parts of the animal sanctuaries. There was a little lull, and a few animals ran out on stage, sniffing here and there. Needless to say, in the spirit of being true tourists, there was a round flashes, followed by another round etc. Two sloths (at least, I think they were sloths) went along a rope hanging over the audience to a little hive-like nest (where I assume were some goodies). Some of the members of the audience wanted to stroke and touch and cuddle those furry creatures but were warned not to.   

I enjoyed the show much more than I expected to. The young instructors were bright and enthusiastic (left pic), and the animals were mostly adorable. The part of the show which I didn’t enjoy was the guy with the missing “pet”. Obviously a planted member of the audience, he apparently lost a python (and made shrill ruckus while he was at it). Some members of the audience were taken in by the (obvious) part of the show, and were screaming and panicking at the thought of a ten foot snake “hiding” somewhere. Yes… In any case, I did enjoy the show though. I think the highlight were the little rodents recycling plastic, glass and paper. The Night Safari constantly reminded us of the need to recycle and to take care of our environment, but the message was always subtle, and never preachy.

After the show, I decided to take a tram to see what’s what. Unfortunately, I had hopped on a Japanese-only tram. Apparently, the Japanese had requested for a specific number of trams, and the Night Safari had obliged. Later on, I realised that the Japanese trams were all mostly a third full, while every single seat was taken on the English-language trams. Feeling slightly disappointed with having been ejected from the tram, I decided to walk along the trails instead. I found myself on the Fishing Cat Trail. Unfortunately, it was too dark for me to take that many good photos. The one on right above is an Indian crocodile (a creature I have a strange fascination with). I can’t for the life of me remember what the creature on the left (below) is, although I think it’s some kind of mouse-deer. I also got a good picture of this leopard (right pic) and this giraffe (pic above).
I won’t give too much away, but the Night Safari is definitely worth a visit. For me, the highlights were the bat sanctuary and the flying squirrel sanctuary. The bats were huge, and inside the sanctuary, I was constantly aware that the bat might just fly down and perch on my head (or something), and these weren’t the tiny bats sitting in my guava tree. These bats were as long as my forearm, if not longer. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see any of the flying squirrels, although the bunch of girls hastily walking through the sanctuary, and screaming at every slight movement was amusement enough. Other highlights include the Forest Giant trail, where I got to see hippopotami, tapirs (practically right on the tram path) and this giraffe (pic above). There was also a scenic lake along the Forest Giant Path (pic further below). Pity no Loch Ness Monster popped its head out…

Loki picked me up on his motorbike after I was done at the Night safari, and took us to Pasir Ris, on the east of Singapore. I have to say, whizzing around on a bike in the middle of the night in Singapore is good fun. Loki likened Pasir Ris to Redang, although I think he and I both are of the opinion that things might look very different in the daytime. There were food stalls along the beach, with nice comfortable tables and chairs (left pic below). The pineapple fried rice was good, and we had Heineken (as to the choice of beverage, ask Loki). The atmosphere was really quite nice, with the sea breeze and the sound of the waves. We moved on to a little club on the beach, playing some really cheesy pop songs (which I enjoyed for the most part). It’s true, along Pasir Panjang on Redang, you get a lot of these little clubs blasting music and charging horrendous prices for canned drinks.
I slept in late the next morning. Although I was due to be on Sentosa Island at 10 am, I decided to have a real holiday and just lounge around, even after I woke up. I finally got to the Harbour Front MRT after lunch. I bought myself a sherbet, and got a cab to Mount Faber, where I could catch the cable car to Sentosa Island. Mount Faber itself was pretty scenic (pics below), and the cable car station had a pretty café on top, with a fish pond (pic further below).

I was alone on the cable car to Sentosa. I liked the way there were so many languages to choose from for commentary on the side panel. Likewise, most notices in Singapore are in four languages: English, Mandarin, Malay and Tamil. So instead of promoting just one (or two) languages, one gets exposure to the languages of all the three major ethnic groups, and English. Anyway, the ride in the cable car initially was scary, I think I would have been more comfortable if I weren’t hanging from something (but rather supported up by something). There were some old colonial houses down Mount Faber, and an aerial view of the Benjamin Sheer bridge (left and right pics respectively below). I was fortunate enough to even go over a Star Cruise ship, which was huge (pic further below). I can’t stress how gigantic the ship was! The two pictures below the Star Cruise ship are views of the harbour and of Sentosa Island from the cable care (left and right respectively).

When I reached Sentosa, I decided to continue on in my relaxed holiday mode, so I bought an iced coffee and sat at the café at the cable car station, enjoying the view and my book. After about half an hour, I decided to go up the Carlsberg rotating tower. This was a space-ship like vessel, which rotated up a tower, and down again. It was good experience, although I don’t recommend it too highly, since you get a good view on the cable car coming in already. The experience of going up spiral-like was nothing too exciting either. The picture below was taken from the tower, of the Sentosa Merlion (apparently the Merlion’s origin was from Sentosa).

After this, I took a bus down to Fort Siloso. I had begun sweating like crazy. I find Singapore much more humid than Kuala Lumpur, probably because it’s an island. Unfortunately, Singaporeans look immaculate practically all the time. I would like to know how they do this with the humidity level they experience. Fort Siloso, Singapore’s only preserved coastal fort, was quite a good experience (although those plastic mannequins were either cheesy or creepy, depending on one’s perception). The little documentary on the fort was especially interesting, and I loved the catacombs and tunnels all around the hill on which Fort Siloso is perched (pic further below). I thought of how great the space would be for art display and performances. There was also a great shaky bridge, which I gamely crossed over. The lady behind me got her high heels caught inbetween the wooden planks. I’m glad I didn’t laugh…

By the time I was done with Fort Siloso (the tower, right pic), I was thoroughly soaked in perspiration. It was an incredibly scorching afternoon, and I was feeling quite self-conscious and miserable. But, before I went back to the hotel, I felt compelled to visit one of the biggest highlights of Sentosa Island, the Underwater World. Personally, I wasn’t particularly impressed. It could be that I had just been to the Night Safari the night before, which is so much bigger and more impressive. It also could be that underwater creatures, unless mammals, don’t particularly excite me. In any case, the Underwater World is basically a tunnel with clear material through which one can experience the sea creatures as up close and personal (aside from actually diving into the water).   

Unfortunately, my camera batteries were dying, and I only got these two puny pictures, which reveal nothing (because I couldn’t use any of those special functions due to my weak batteries). The highlights for me were the manta ray swimming over the tunnel, and also the lonely dugong all on its own.

After Sentosa, it was more rest at the hotel, followed by dinner at Esmirada at Chijmes. I had a voucher for this restaurant too, and I generally have had good times at Chijmes. Unfortunately, this time around, Loki and I weren’t served too well by the restaurant (although tables of white diners were being fawned over – it’s also telling that only expat websites seem to mention this restaurant at all). In any case, the paella was terrible, the service a load of bollocks (mind my British), and the whole experience truly a waste of time and money. Don’t go there unless you’re a white expat, that’s my suggestion.   

Loki and I felt obliged to visit Burger King afterwards, followed by dessert at a local cafe chain at Raffles City. The place was like a watered down version of American Chillies. The food was alright though (far better than Esmirada, far cheaper, and with much better service). Loki was set for an appointment for the following morning, so after a short while, he went back to rest, while I got back to the hotel, effectively ending the last night of my stay in Singapore.

Thanks, Loki & the STB.

Detour – Singapore 04 (Part 2)

In Travel on 27/11/2004 at 17:10
I woke up early (for me on holiday) the next morning. On the agenda was the Singapore DUCK tours, so I found myself rushing through the hotel’s complimentary buffet breakfast, then rushing down to Suntec City. Another thing I really like about Singapore is the greenery you find everywhere. Outside Suntec City, there is a little bonsai garden for people to relax in (and smoke – right pic).   

The DUCK tour is on an amphibious vehicle, the DUKW used in World War II. The tour itself starts from Suntec City, then down to the war memorial, round the “Padang” (the big field at which Singapore declared its independence), pass the Supreme Courts, City Hall, down past Pan Pacific Hotel, then down into the Marina Bay, past the Esplanade and to the newly-situated Merlion. I was there early, and so I mulled around the Suntec City convention centre, and noted the Tower Records in the shopping arcade in one of Suntec’s five towers (representing five fingers, apparently). Tour participants, called Duckies, were asked to meet at the tour booth ten minutes beforehand for a brief safety video briefing, then we boarded the DUKW.

Our tour began with the Marina Bay, as opposed to the usual land route. We drove through a little forested area and into the bay (left pic above). Another thing which amazes me about Singaporeans is the amount of physical activity they do. There were people canoeing in the bay, and people running and exercising in the park, at 11 am on a Saturday morning. Those in the canoe waved as we went by, and I saw a man fishing in the bay (I hadn’t realised that the shores were that shallow – right pic above). 

 

As we rounded a corner underneath the Benjamin Shear bridge (apparently it takes just 40 minutes to drive from one end of Singapore to the other on this highway – left pic above), the city and the Esplanade (pic above) came into view. In the distance, beyond the Esplanade Bridge, I could see the Supreme Court building, with the new Supreme Court building, shaped like a UFO, behind it (right pic above). Right next to One Fullerton on the pier sat the good old Merlion, with water gushing out of its mouth (pic below). Built in 1972, the statue symbolises the mythical beast which is the apparent guardian of the island (read more here). 

The DUKW turned around so that everyone could take pictures on both sides, and the tour guide was friendly enough, and offered to assist taking pictures. She was actually quite good, having lots of anecdotal information to share with everyone. We headed back to the little forest path, when we passed another duck (left pic) and back on to Raffles Boulevard to continue the land route of the tour. Unfortunately, I didn’t get many photos on land, mainly because the duck’s canopy didn’t allow me to take any of the taller buildings and monuments, since I wasn’t sitting right by the side.
In any case, I had planned to walk down to the old Parliament building for lunch at 1827, and I would be passing by most of the historical buildings on the DUCK land route. I first decided to take pictures of Suntec City, but being so big, I only managed to get two towers in one picture (left pic above). And of course, I had to take a picture of the fountain of wealth (right pic above). While trying to get from Raffles City to the Supreme Court through an extremely confusing underground shopping passage, I discovered how much public art there is in Singapore. As mentioned in my earlier post, some of Singapore’s MRT stations seem to be forming a personality of their own, much like the City Hall (I think) MRT station leading to the Esplanade, where works of art on one side (left pic below), and photographs on the other, are displayed. I also found an interesting water-wheel at One Raffles Link (right pic below).

 

I finally found my way out of Raffles City, and managed to take a shot of the War Memorial (pic above). I walked alongside the Padang (left pic below). St. Andrew’s Church, although undergoing some work, still looked beautiful (right pic below). And of course, there is nothing as imposing as the old Supreme Court building (pic further below).

 

I found the Parliament house (pics below) along Old Parliament lane. The building has been turned into an arts and theatre centre, and as usual, the refurbishment and restoration of the old colonial-style building was just something I had to admire. The restaurant, 1827, served westernised-Thai food. The ambience of the place was breezy and relaxing, and I found later that I had spent almost three hours, having a 3-course meal and just lounging with my book!

 

Of course, I ended up rushing again, to get back to my hotel to get ready for the Night Safari.

Detour – Singapore 04 (Part 1)

In Travel on 20/11/2004 at 14:30

Recently, I was privileged enough to take up an open invitation the Singapore Tourism Board had offered to Malaysian media reps, which comprised of three nights board and meals, as well as entry to Singapore’s tourist attractions. Truth be told, I needed a holiday desperately, and I’ve always enjoyed Singapore very much. Although it’s just next door, it’s practically a whole different world, with a much better variety of books, CDs and clothes, and a much better administration and management of the city (no huge gaping potholes, or slipshod re-surfacing of roads in Singapore), and just a generally better standard of living than Malaysia. I took the bus down, and we got through via the Second Link. When I was very much younger, I used to think Singapore was a little city surrounded by jungle, and I think there is quite a bit of secondary rainforest around, especially on areas where land has been reclaimed (left pic).

My hotel, Albert Court Hotel on Albert Street, was in the Little India vicinity, on the corner of Rochor Canal Road and Selegie Road (I was later told that the Selegie Road area was a red light district of sorts, something I would never have known, so clean and absent-of-red-lights the area was). I was quite impressed with the hotel, it was two rows of refurbished shoplots (left pic above), with the road inbetween tiled over to form a “courtyard” (right pic above). It was definitely miles better than another boutique hotel in China town, at which I had minimal comfort and/or fun last year, although I got to see a lot of yawnsome designer chairs in its cramped space. In any case, Albert Court Hotel provided wonderful service, and had a classy foyer (left pic below) and cafe as well (right pic below). My room was pretty spacious and really done up quite well (pictures further below), with a view of the courtyard.

 

I had a heavy itenary for the weekend, since I had opted to go for touristy things to do which I never would if I had to pay. I knew I had very little time to shop, so I was on Orchard Road, Singapore’s shopping street, within an hour of my arrival. It was a lot less busy than usual (right pic), although there was something going on in front of Ngee Ann City. I browsed through Kinokuniya, then off to HMV at the Heeren, then Centrepoint, then Plaza Singapura, then back to the hotel via the MRT. On the way back, I noticed that the Little India MRT was developing a personality of its own, with little ethnic pictures on the wall (pic below). This was an interesting development, since most of the zones 1 and 2 London tube stations had their own personality and character. Perhaps these kinds of things happen over time, and before you know it, Singapore’s MRT might have an entire subculture of its own, much like the London underground.

I rested awhile at the hotel, then close to midnight, I decided to go down to Mustafa’s to do some shopping for my father. I got directions from the hotel reception, and began my walk down Serangoon Road (north of Selegie Road – left pic). Little India was quite busy, what with Deepavali (or “Diwali”) in the air. People were shopping by the droves, with stalls in alleys selling colourful festive stuff (left pic below). Singapore is really good with refurbishing old buildings, yet maintaining some of its original character and Little India is no exemption (right pic below). Little India is a shopping haven mainly for Indians, and there are quite a number of places of worship in the district, like the temple in the left pic further below, and the mosque in the right pic further below.

 

I reached Mustafa’s and was really quite taken aback at how crowded it was. The queue was snaking from the cashier right to the further recesses of the shop, and people were shopping or just browsing by the droves. Mustafa’s is open 24 hours, and sells everything under the sun. I was asked to get some toiletry, but ended up getting more than just that, since the price of stuff was generally cheap. I was later told that some things in Mustafa’s was expensive, but since people think some things are cheap, they assume everything else is cheap, a good marketing ploy. However, the stuff I got, including some early Christmas presents, were below Malaysian prices, so no regrets on my part.

Market on Serangoon Road

Needless to say, I got back to the hotel past midnight, and completely shattered.

But in a good way.

High Above The City – KL Tower

In Travel on 15/11/2004 at 11:30
I found myself at the KL Tower for work recently. It’s a sad thing, I know, being a KL-ite, and just visiting the KL Tower at this juncture. Another example of how I take things for granted here. The drive up was nice, set on Bukit Nanas (or Pineapple Hill, see left pic), the short drive up was quiet and green, a welcome respite from the dust and bustle of the city, left at the base of the hill. The view from the base of the tower (the top of the hill) was impressive already (pics below), and I could imagine how much better it would be from above. 

I was at finished with work just after noon, and I was free to mooch around. At the base of the tower were the usual touristy shops and stalls, selling keychains, t-shirts and the like (left pic below). There were busloads of school children visiting, all excited to be out of school on a field trip. There were also the usual number of tourists about, and interestingly enough, I also found a Modesto’s underneath the main fountain platform there (right pic below). At the very base of the car park, where tourist buses park, is the entrance to the Bukit Nanas forest trail (pic further below).

 

The main fountain platform itself was quite impressive (left pic below), with the jets of water streaming in different directions to create a slightly different pattern, rather than the usual upward jets of water (right pic below). There were also interesting ethnic art pillars inbetween the pools of water.

I took a short break, and had a drink by the cafe. I noticed the monkeys from the Bukit Nanas forest reserve were playing among the motorcyles. They were climbing from trees and on to buildings and motorcycles, eating leaves, and having mock fights. Unfortunately, as soon as anyone approached the motorcycle parking lot, they would scoot up some pipes, and wait on top of the freestanding annex building, peering to see when they would be alone again. It was quite fun to watch them (pics below).

 

I approached the entrance to ride up the tower (I thought was quite impressive, with its ornate tiled patterns, pic above), and was about to grudgingly fork out the RM15 to get a ride up, when I found that media members from the function earlier were getting free rides to the top. This is definitely one of the perks of being a writer with a magazine. I grabbed a media sticker, and ran after the group, and made the lift just in time.

View of Istana Budaya, National Library, Lake Titiwangsa, KL North 

KLCC (left) and Maybank (right)

View of Bukit Nanas Convent (far right), St John’s Institution, Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve
The top of the tower was darker than I had imagined, but the view was spectacular. I could see development going on at the fringes of Kuala Lumpur, practically in all directions. There were guided pre-taped tours, with headphones, available for guests, as well as telescopes (or binoculors?). Unfortunately, my camera’s batteries were running out of power, and I began to get concerned that I wouldn’t get enough pictures for the blog. Thank God, my batteries lasted me until I got bored!

Night Adventures # 4 – National Mosque

In Travel on 04/11/2004 at 22:34

A friend, C (see Segambut Night Adventure), wanted to take some pictures of the National Mosque recently, and I decided to keep him company one drizzly evening. We parked outside the Islamic Religious Department of the Federal Territories Kuala Lumpur (left pic). I don’t know much about architecture, but the facade appears to be quite middle eastern, and definitely very impressive. I felt dwarfed in front of those massive doors.

While C set off in an unexplained haste to set up his tripod, I sauntered down Jalan Perdana towards the roundabout. The moorish-styled Keratapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) headquarters was brightly lit (right pic), as were most buildings in the area. This, and the old train station across the road, Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin, are one of my favourite old buildings in KL. The KTM headquarters, completed in 1917, was designed by Brit architect AB Hubbock in 1913. The building apparently is a blend of various architectural styles, having elements from 13th and 14th century Ottoman and Mogul empire,s as well as Gothic and ancient Greek designs. The building is now a designated “Old Monument and Historical Site”, fully protected under the Historical Relics Act 1976.

 

I crossed the road to took pictures of the fountain (left pic). I noticed a tourist washing himself a bit further away from the fountain, while some malay folk were relaxing after prayers and breaking fast. The National Mosque itself was impressive (pic above), with light pouring out of its every crevice. Designed by Howard Ashley of the Public Works Department in 1965, the building has extended horizontal planes, generally free from walls on their sides, lending the atmosphere a bright and breezy feel. Apparently, the initial design was provided by Tunku Abdul Rahman.

Being designed and built during Malaysia’s “international style” period, the National Mosque unsurprisingly is modern in design, although maintaining the integrity of islamic archecture. The patterned grills along the building, on the upper verandahs, and on the smaller domes are based on Sarasin design, although modified to suit the times. The mosque has a unique folded concrete plate roof, with 18 spokes representing the 13 states and five pillars of Islam. According to the mosque’s website, the roof and the tower represent “loyalty”, as they both represent the royal umbrella (whereas the roof represents an opened umbrella, while the tower represents a closed one). The main part of the mosque has a charming moat. I’m not sure if there is an Islamic basis to this…

There was some construction work going on (pics above), possibly in time for Hari Raya Aidilfitri (Eid al-Fitr). After taking some photos around the building, I had a dire need to use the gents. So I walked up to the guards to ask permission. I had to take off my shoes and socks, which was fine. This was my first time in a mosque, I had to walk down a flight of stairs and came upon a massive area used to wash one’s feet before prayers. I couldn’t help myself, I took a picture (left pic below). When I came up again, I found the whole area was actually open from the ground level (right pic below).

Soon, it began to rain in earnest, and C and I took refuge in the old train station. We took a walk into the Heritage Hotel, hoping to get some coffee and dessert at the cafe, but unfortunately it had closed at 10 pm. The hotel looked dark and a bit sleezy (pics below), but it had a charming old-fashioned lift, in a grilled cage, around which the staircase rose up. The train station itself was unsurprisingly dead (left pic further below), since the main locomotive activity is now at the new KL Sentral station. However, I did find the postal workers hard at work, sorting out parcels and packages outside (right pic further below).

 

When the rain had stopped, we scooted back to the National Mosque again. Instead of going straight to the mosque, I walked down Jalan Perdana away from the main road. I came across the Islamic Arts Museum (right pic), which looked pretty nice from outside. On the right of the street was a car park (with interesting shades) catering to the National Mosque. Just before that is the mausoleum for prominent country leaders, a white structure replicating the folded roof of the National Mosque (left pic below). Actually, the whole scene was quite charming after the rain (right pic below). The guards wouldn’t let me into the car park, because there apparently was a visiting VIP (at midnight!), but I saw an interesting little gazebo in the distance beyond the car park (pic further below).

 

After C was done with taking pictures, we took a little drive down the Lake Gardens roads, all wet and serene and quiet after midnight. I definitely need to go back there during the day some time.

Rainy Afternoon in Port Dickson

In Travel on 01/11/2004 at 00:25

So I hurriedly took a few last pictures of Morib, and we gathered ourselves back into the stationwagon, and we headed down to Port Dickson, in Negri Sembilan. I have to say that the coast road is really very scenic, especially compared to the dull north-south highway. We travelled through the Guthrie plantations, and saw quite a number of planes, all probably heading towards (or from) the Kuala Lumpur International Airport, which was nearby (pics below).

Port Dickson is one of those places which reminds me of my childhood, like Fraser’s Hill and Mimaland. We used to go down quite often when we were children, and stay at Headlands, a KTM-staff getaway. It was a beautiful white colonial-style house, on a hill on a peninsula down in Port Dickson. Unfortunately, not only has the house been razed down, but the hill flattened as well. All in the name of development…

We reached Port Dickson quite soon, passing through the huge electrical towers, which I used to think were static giant robots when I was a child (left pic above). The town centre itself has expanded, but the older shops are largely still there (right pic above). We stopped by the Port Authority and Customs at the town’s pier (left pic below) to take a picture of two boats which has been on that shore since I can remember (right pic below).

 

The older parts of Port Dickson hasn’t changed much, and the coast road is still pretty to drive along (left pic below). Along the way, we passed by the “buaka puasa“(breaking of fast) stalls (right pic below), and thought of stopping to get our dinner. We decided to backtrack when we were done with the beach. As we were going down to my brother’s “secret” beach, we passed by a huge temple (left pic, further below) and also a cemetary (right pic, further below), both of which I can’t remember at all from my childhood trips down to PD. I also saw a number of broken down old houses, like the one in the large pic, even further below.

 

 

When we reached my brother’s “secret” beach, we discovered it wasn’t so secret after all. The tide was still out, and there were quite a number of beach combers. The sand was rougher than that on Morib’s beach, but the shoreline looked cleaner, and the sea more welcoming and less muddy, although the sand was courser. Unfortunately, the development of a condo block (yet another) marred the landscape. I also discovered a few old ruined colonial houses, used as pastures for cows and bulls.

 

We called it a day after that, and made our way back to Kuala Lumpur. We were so tired, we forgot all about getting food from the stalls. We stopped at the Nilai rest stop on the way up for some drinks. Needless to say, I grabbed some pictures of the highway (left pic, below) and the rest stop (right pic, below) for the blog.

A Rainy Afternoon In Morib

In Travel on 28/10/2004 at 21:39

When we went to Carey Island recently, I failed to mention that we wanted to drive down to Morib, but decided against it because of the rain. Feeling restless and adventurous, my brother decided to go down with his family to Morib, and I happily jumped on the stationwagon.

We took the same route as we did down to Carey Island, so there was much the same to see. Once we were beyond the Carey Island turnoff, I began to look around, and found that pillars and stone constructs were big business in the Kuala Langat district (left pic above). The area seemed predominantly Indian by the number of temples around, like this peach coloured one along the main road (right pic above). It seemed like the district was developing rapidly, with golf driving ranges along the way, and even karaoke joints and massage parlours (with interesting names like “Sauna Herba De Aroma”) in little shop lots.

We stopped after about a bit more than an hour’s drive at a little coffee shop for lunch (pics above) on the outskirts of Morib. Little coffee shop though it was, a meal for five came to RM45, which is close to KL prices. I mooched along the main road (left pic below) and came across another temple (right pic below), and also a charming little malay kampung house (large picture further below). We waited for the drizzle to subside, and jumped back into the station wagon. It didn’t take us long to find the beach.

 

My parents were wrong. Morib’s beach was much nicer than Carey Island’s. There were quite a number of people combing the beach or flying kites, despite it being overcast and also during the fasting month period. The beach was swampy to the north, with a few fishermen digging for shellfish (left pic below). To the south, the beach was brighter and the sand less muddy (right pic below).

 

The road leading to the beach

Aside from that though, there was not much else to see. My brother had done some research before coming down, and had discovered that Morib apparently has quite a number of historical sites, like ruins of old government buildings, the Jugra royal graves, and an abandoned palace. Allied Forces used Morib to land in 1945 fight against the Japanese Army. Unfortunately, none of these places had any clear signages to get to, at least none that we spotted. Apparently, Morib also has another beach, which we also did not discover.

Feeling disappointed, my brother decided to take us all down to through the coast road to Port Dickson. Which is what the next blog post is on.

The Penchala Link #1

In Travel on 25/10/2004 at 01:28

I once described the Penchala Link as a huge endless expanse of concrete leading to edge of imagination. So recently, I decided to take a short drive (short because of time constraint) along the Penchala Link to see what’s what. I had a rough idea, having taken the shortest distance from the Mont Kiara toll booth to Taman Tun Dr. Ismail one evening when there was no toll. This time, if I could, I wanted to go a bit further.

The Penchala Link was officially opened in February 2004. This is the third link under the auspices of SPRINT, the other two being the Damansara and Kerinchi Links, both in use since 2001. The Penchala Link connects the LDP at Kg Sungai Penchala to the Kerinchi Link via an interchange at Mont Kiara. It has three interchanges, namely the Penchala Interchange, Taman Tun Dr Ismail (TTDI) Interchange and Mont Kiara Interchange. The Penchala Link came in very handy earlier this year when the Middle Ring Road 2 was found to have cracks in its beams.

From Plaza Mont Kiara, I drove out to the Sri Hartamas/Desa Sri Hartamas flyover, and made a U-turn underneath. I then headed up on the the Penchala Link heading westbound, with the sun right in my eyes. I wanted to stop to take pictures of how high up I was, but the soft road shoulder wasn’t wide enough for a car to stop, while not inconveniencing others. So I had to stick my hand out to take some photos. None but the left picture came out alright.

The scenery was really quite interesting, and quite unlike the usual sights in Kuala Lumpur. The highway was elevated enough for a good view of all the Mont Kiara developments on the left (and new developments on the slope ahead in the west). On the left was a good view of Desa Sri Hartamas. Ahead was the Mont Kiara toll plaza (left pic), and beyond that, plenty of green. I have to say, I love seeing plenty of greenery, and it was good to know that there was so much lush forest so close to where I worked.

After the toll plaza, I could see the Penchala Tunnels (pic above). In a very childlike fashion, these tunnels are pretty exciting for me as well, like there’s something beyond which might lead to somewhere exciting (in actual fact, as exciting as Taman Tun Dr Ismail). The rest stop (pics below) was meant for motorcycles to shelter from the rain (I think). The rest stop was sheltered from the sun by the hill over the tunnels, and in the little valley next to the rest stop was plenty of green (right pic). All this made the little shelter very cool, and very quiet.

Beyond the tunnels, the scenery was no less breathtaking. Emerging from the dark tunnels, with a hill on the left, I could see little kampungs in the valley on the right. In less than two minutes of driving, the road branched with the Taman Tun exit on the left. I opted to stick on to the main road. There were quite a number of interesting houses on both sides, but there really was nowhere for me to stop. All I could manage were the pictures below.

 

After going over the hill in the pictures above, I took the turn off to Mutiara Damansara/The Curve. As mentioned, I was time constrained. I would definitely continue on one day to Sungei Buloh when time allows. More artists’ drawings of the link can be found here.

Post Script: the flat rate of RM2 makes travelling from Mont Kiara to Taman Tun/Bandar Utama is a bit steep.

The Suburbs #1 – Section 16, PJ

In Travel on 21/10/2004 at 14:15

I decided to start an intermittent series on housing areas I like, or wish I lived in. There are loads of them, but I chose section 16 in Petaling Jaya because it was a quick stop on the way to the gym. I’ve always loved most of section 16, it was one of my usual cycling routes when I was a teen. It’s a hilly area, so there is plenty of opportunity to lift those quads and work those abs, but I’m digressing.

For photose, I decided to stop by the really exclusive cul-de-sac, Jalan Sultan Salahudding Abdul Azia 16/9, since it was just off the main road, Jalan Dato Abu Bakar. It’s really quite an elegant neighbourhood, although there are the usual too-big-too-ugly-too-ornate houses. That’s almost a Malaysian necessity in any neighbourhood. Entry into the neighbourhood was torture for my old faithful Proton. The hill was so steep (right pic), I had to switch of the air-conditioning and CD player to climb up that hill, all the way on first gear.

 

Most houses had names, like “Sri Cemerlang” and “Permata”, and most of them were huge. However, unlike other areas where there are huge houses with pre-shrunk yards, these houses fitted their grounds well. Some of them even had little “summer houses” and almost al of them had guards.

 

 

When I reached the top of that treacherous hill, there was a charming little playground on the left, overlooking Petaling Jaya (pic, above). The whole area is covered with big leafy green trees, and the playground was well-maintained. Another thing I liked about this neighbourhood was that not all the affluent felt they needed to have sizable mansions. Some of them had decent-sized houses, in proportion to their lawns, as opposed to a massive house squeezed tight into the compound. And there were also some nice quiet little single storey bungalows like the one in the left pic.

 

Unfortunately, the huge commercial area right behind the hill marred the view (pics). I think the whole Phileo Damansara and Eastin developments are about just over a decade old, while the Star building is more recent. Notwithstanding the not-so pretty view, I know I definitely would gladly move into this neighbourhood if someone gifted me a house there.

 

Night Adventures # 3 – KL North

In Travel on 18/10/2004 at 10:00

Recently, RPM Nut invited to show me around his area of Kuala Lumpur, which is mainly in the northern and north-eastern side (I think). So after the gym, I headed down to Kuala Lumpur City Centre, because I needed to get some stuff at the Twin Towers. Unfortunately, it was the first Saturday of the month, and I stupidly took the Duta way. Had I known there was massive roadworks, I would have had avoided it. So I was stuck in a jam for more than half an hour (left pic). Needless to say, I used the opportunity to take some pictures.

After the painful Duta stretch, I finally hit Jalan Kuching. Southbound was free flowing, and I reached KLCC in no time. Unfortunately, this “shopping heaven” did not sell any swimming flippers, and did not have Bjork’s new album (I am looking for the Japanese import), so I bought some books, then headed out to Ampang Point. I forgot Jalan Ampang had its fair share of traffic jams, especially before the Keramat turn-off. After that, I hit Ampang Point in less than five minutes, and settled down for coffee with RPM Nut.

View from Kinokuniya KLCC

We soon headed out from the Ampang Point area, underneath the middle ring road, and made a u-turn towards Ukay Heights. RPM Nut wanted to show me some of the houses there, and I have to admit, that was a very nice residential area to live in, despite its single access in and out. We ended up at the foot of Highland Towers, which is now abandoned. The remaining blocks standing were dark and gloomy, while the forest around it looked creepy (left pic).

We then cruised along the middle ring road, and ended up near Wangsa Maju. The shoplots in Desa Setapak, once a haven for VCDs, is still thriving (right pic). We headed further into the older areas of Wangsa Maju. The flats in section 2, of the low cost variety when first built, actually looked quite good, with large trees outside, and marginal traffic (pics below). We surveyed the area, and I took some unsuccessful pictures, before we moved back towards Ampang Jaya (specifically Jalan Kerja Air Lama) for dinner.

Along the way, we stopped by the Sri Maryamman temple along the Gombak River (pic below). There was some kind of festival going on that evening, but I couldn’t venture out to ask anyone because RPM Nut was waiting illegally on the road shoulder. I also grabbed a few cool shots of the elevated highway (left pic).

We travelled into Ampang Jaya, where there was an interesting little stall. It was gaudily lit, and had bright chandeliers and an interesting clock-fountain-tap (respectively below). The food was reasonably good, but the teh ais (iced tea) was fantastic! Highly recommended! After dinner, we headed even further out north to Ukay Perdana, where there’s a really good view of Kuala Lumpur (last pic). It’s quite a nice area, although quite far out of town for me.

Then we headed back into town, and like any other weekend night, I got caught in a traffic jam at 12.30 am.

For The Tourist #4 – National History Museum

In Travel on 14/10/2004 at 13:31

After mooching about Central Market recently, I ended up at the National History Museum. It’s located on the southern side of Dataran Merdeka, on the junction where Jalan Raja and Victory Avenue meet. Admission is free, and there were no photographing restrictions. It was nice to get into the cool air-conditioning from the sticky heat outside. The building has been nicely refurbished, with sliding glass doors and central air-conditioning. The information sheet said that the National History Museum was officially opened in 1996. Well, that explains why I didn’t know it existed, I was out of the country at the time!

Through the sliding glass door panels, the first exhibits are wood carvings and copper toolings of Malay warriors and the like. The centrepiece (left pic) is quite impressive, almost from floor to ceiling. Other historical artefacts, like the keris (malay sword) and malay traditional clothing are exhibited in the main foyer. I turned left, and began my journey from the very beginning – prehistory. There didn’t seem much interesting to me at that point, mostly bits of stone and flint displayed (apparently tools prehistorical people used), although there were some nice photos of the prehistoric painting in the Niah Caves.

Next on display was the neo-lithic period (early farmers), with plenty of pots, bowls and other crude farming tools exhibited. Following this, were displays on the hoabinhian and metal periods. The megalithic culture in Negri Sembilan and East Malaysia had some interesting exhbits (like the rock mini-menhirs in left pic above). Next was a display on the hindu and buddhist cultures in Malaysia (right pic above, artefacts from the Bujang Valley).

I moved on upstairs, where the famous Batu Bersurat Terengganu, or the Inscribed Terengganu Stone, was exhibited (right pic). This is something I remember we were taught very early on in the history school syllabus. The stone is apparently evidence of when Islam came into the country, namely Terengganu on the east coast. Ask me when, and I couldn’t tell you the answer, but I do recall it was ages and ages ago, and that it came through China (interestingly enough).

The next exhibition hall had the great Malaccan period on display, when Malacca became a commercial hub for the region because of its strategic location. I was disappointed with the illustration of events in this room, they looked a lot like those in our school textbooks (albeit in colour). Displays on the periods on the Dutch (Dutch chairs, left pic) and Portuegese rule were brief, while that on the British Colonial rule bored me (but this could be because of those many hours of memorisation exam topics all those years ago).

On the second floor, the final displays were on great Malaysian patriots, writers and politicians, like P. Ramlee, Tok Gajah, Adibah Amin, Onn Jaafar, Tan Cheng Lock and Tun Sambanthan. There was also a section on great (Muslim) religious leaders. Tucked away in the back was a little display on the Japanese occupation (right pic). Next on were displays on Malaysia’s development, with a very special section called “Malaysia Boleh!” (literally, “Malaysia Can!” – which has inspired me to begin a photo blog series by the same name). Of course, there was a model Proton, Malaysia’s first car, on display, along with other great Malaysian feats, like climbing Mount Everest, yachting around the world, the KL Tower etc.

The logos and important figures in the different political parties through the decades were exhibited next, with the past few kings and queens in the final chamber on that topmost floor (left pic). After climbing all the way down the building, there were pictures of important historical buildings, like palaces, historical houses, heritage buildings and religious buildings (of which, not one single church or temple were pictured). Right at the back in that final room was a little bit on the commonwealth, with a non-working interactive computer-machine thingy and some furniture from the last CHOGM (Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting) held in Malaysia.

The exhibits were fun, and made me slightly nostalgic for school. More interestingly, the building has been done up really well. There are the interesting staircases (pic above) at the four corners of the building, with a really nice corridor in front of the main section of the building . Apparently, the original building was made from bricks and wood, used as the main office of the Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China. The building was later demolished and rebuilt with Moorish and Islamic architecture. The building was used by the Japanese as a telecommunications base during the second world war. After a stretch of being used by different governmental departments, it was finally given to the Museums and Antiquities Department in 1991.

(back view of the National History Museum)

For The Tourist #3 – Central Market

In Travel on 11/10/2004 at 01:15

When I was much younger, my mother used to haul me down to Central Market down in Kuala Lumpur. At that time, there used to be free parking spaces all over the place. Central Market was white (or at least, had been painted white), and it was actually a wet market (much like Selayang Market is now). I hate wet markets, and I used to protest very loudly, squidging in the dark muddy insides, with the smells of raw meat and drains. It closed down for awhile when I was about ten, I think. And then it was reborn, like a phoenix from the ashes, all pink and eggshell-blue, a new tourist destination for Kuala Lumpur, Garden City of Lights (no, wait – it’s Vision City now).

I do like the idea and concept of Central Market. Although the area is far too busy for me to want to go there often, it has become what it was designed to be – an arts and crafts hub. Although a little faded now, it still is as interesting a place as it used to be when it first opened as an arts and crafts market. There is the usual food fare, and some non-arts shops, like the second-hand book store my mother used to love, and also the CD shops and some clothes shops. However, local amateur artists have their little stalls in the four corners of the market, while there are plenty of arts and crafts stalls, with weavings and carvings, and all manners of local handicraft with the tourist in mind.

I discovered an artist, Adeputra, who had his political work up on display (sample below). I was quite taken with his work. He had one on Bush, some on the recent budget, all quite eye-catching and youthful, yet with darker undertones if you look closely to see what the newspaper cuttings say. He has been an artist for five years, although his main source of income is from his daytime job.

A few years after the market was revived as an arts and crafts market, an annex was built right behind it (right pic). It was initially called Central Square, with a few eateries and arts shops on the ground floor, a pub on the first floor, and a cinema on the second. Now the club, one of KL’s vibrant and longest lasting Saturday venues, has taken over the cinema, and is a double-storey affair. The newsagents and the eateries are about the same. Now, the annex has been renamed “Central Market Annexe”.

Following that development, a few years down the line, an underground tunnel was built on inbetween Central Market and the Klang River to accomodate a new line on our light rail transport system. This made the embankment much more interesting, with an elevated view of the surroundings (the elevated embankment, left pic below, left of pic). Once that was built, a little stage was set into the elevated embankment (right pic below). Both cultural as well as contemporary performances take place there some evenings.

Central Market is situated on the southern fringes of Kuala Lumpur, and on the eastern bank of the Klang River. The surrounding area is also worth working around. I discovered that some of the old shop houses had been refurbished (left pic below), while others remained abandoned or were in a state of disrepair (right pic below). I was saddened, although I am unsure as to why, that some of the old pawnbrokers were now converted into mobile phone shops. I also discovered a budget hotel, Le Village, which wasn’t there the last time I walked along Jalan Tun HS Lee. Along the bridge on Leboh Pasar Besar, you get a good view of Masjid Jamek.

Near Central Market stands our once-proud Kuala Lumpur Clock Tower (pic below). Undoubtedly not much of a tower anymore, it still looks quite good on the tarmac (which is now a busy bus stop). Next to it is the famous chicken rice shop, although it doesn’t look like it’s open anymore (but it could be that it was a Sunday). I ended my round at the National History Museum, which will be reviewed in a seperate post.

Darker Undertones – Desa Sri Hartamas

In Travel on 07/10/2004 at 23:17

While heading into Desa Sri Hartamas for dinner recently, I noticed what a great picture the staircase along the shortcut would make (left pic). When it’s after dark, and the shortcut is quiet, just standing at the foot of the staircase looking up, reminds me of being on Whitechapel’s amber-tinted streets, on which Jack the Ripper used to hunt.

Desa Sri Hartamas is another one of those trendy evening spots. Unsurprisingly nicknamed “the new Bangsar”, Desa Sri Hartamas has practically everything the Bangsar Telawi area has to offer, including a branch of the famous SPG haunt, Finnegans (pic). Unlike the Bangsar Telawi area, Desa Sri Hartamas offers fewer night entertainment spots, and possibly more variety in restaurants. At a cursory glance, I found Japanese, Korean, Western, fusion food, food stalls, baba food, Penang food, bakeries, Strudel, Burger King, practically everything you could want in just one commercial area.

Aside from the food spots and some watering holes, Desa Sri Hart (as it’s lovingly called by locals) has the usual retail stores, like Guardian Pharmacy, a trendy supermarket, some stationery stores, a petrol kiosk, car accessories, a pet store, a fire station, a famous children’s book store and the famous TNT Kickboxing studio. The stores I usually like to linger in are the DVD/VCD stores.

 

Desa Sri Hartamas Fire Station

It was quite quiet on the night I ventured there for dinner at a Japanese restaurant. I wasn’t very surprised, its being a weekday evening. It’s a totally different story on a weekend night though. I would think that perhaps the problem with Desa Sri Hartamas now is the silent shock of Darren Kang’s murder recently. Unlike Whitechapel, Desa Sri Hartamas is an upmarket area, with patrons coming from the upper middle income to the affluent. Even the backlanes are well lit (right pic), with trees and grass and pavements, as opposed to dirty drains and large sewer rats. Had Darren Kang been assaulted and killed in another area of town, say Chow Kit or Kampung Baru, perhaps the public would not have been as shocked or affected by his murder.

Darren’s unfortunate demise is not a one-off or rare occurence. As mentioned in an earlier post, violence in Kuala Lumpur is escalating beyond proportions the public has ever experienced. Recently, there was an attempt to abduct Datuk Chua Jui Meng’s son from a petrol station in the area. Desa Sri Hartamas residents, like those in Taman SA, are more than aware of the situation, and have taken matters into their own hands.

The residents’ association recently formed a “Security Base” (right pic, below). Now, the public is not allowed into the housing estate, with all one entrance/exit completely cordonned off (left pic, below), and the other manned by security guads (pic, above). The guard told me that security operations have been running for about five months now. However, he did say something surprising. He said the housing area was now closed because residents were unhappy with the public parking inside. I can imagine this would be a more valid reason for Taman SA, but who’s to know. I personally wouldn’t be happy if there was a popular commercial square nearby, with the public parking indiscriminately along my neighbourhood streets.

 

I found this travelogue on Desa Sri Hart. It has daytime pictures, and a very good picture of a stack of rubbish (well, it’s good to see all sides of the place).

Carey Island #1

In Travel on 04/10/2004 at 01:05

Recently, I went on a family outing to Carey Island for seafood. We used to go there often when my brother and I were younger (and not working), but family excursions have got less frequent with the onset of age and jobs. Unsurprisingly, I was pretty happy about the outing, and was looking forward to taking some good pictures for the blog.

Carey Island is situated south of Port Klang, just off the mainland, about an hour’s drive from Petaling Jaya (through the LDP and Kesas Highways). It apparently is a huge island, alleged to be almost the size of Singapore. Its land has been used for agricultural purposes: my mother said she visited it when she was young to view the tea plantations and manufacturing procedure. More recently, Golden Hope Plantations has had its palm oil plantations on the island. For as long as I can remember, the island has been closed off from the public, although there is a bridge from the mainland to the Island.

The journey there was much faster than I remember it to be. It could be because we had opted to take the LDP and Kesas Highways, instead of the usual route of the Federal Highway, and later on through Klang. I finally discovered where Kota Kemuning and Bukit Rimau were (shameful, I know). The roads from the Kesas Highway to Banting was greatly improved, and incredibly had no toll stations at all (pic above). There seemed to me to be less palm oil estates about, and more residential development going on. There were also a great number of abandoned ‘kampung’ houses along the way, like the one in the left photo below. Of course, the thing anyone would see the most are palm oil trees (left pic).

We finally reached the restaurant, which is on the mainland along the river facing Carey Island (right pic, above), I discovered that the road and bridge leading to the island were not barred any longer. Vehicles driving freely on to the island, with no sight of any barrier or guard house along the coastline. When we had settled down at the restaurant, I quickly took leave to grab some shots of the areas surrounding the restaurant. I later on asked the restaurant proprietor what the name of the river was. She said it was the “Pulau Carey River” – I knew this was highly unlikely. Later on, when I asked my parents, they said it could be the Langat River, or possibly the Jugra River. Anyone?

The Bridge
 
The River
After lunch, we headed off on to Carey Island. After years of wondering what was on it, my brother and I were quite keen to explore it a bit. Unfortunately, we encountered one long endless road (left pic, below), with lots of palm oil plantations, and the occassional coconut tree orchard (right pic, below). My brother had mentioned that the aboroginal tribes of the island were famous of its very distinct and seperate culture, and for its wood carving. Along the main road, we came across many smaller roads leading away into smaller villages, and even a “heritage island”. However, we had a baby with us, and were also short of time to explore.

It was when I could not bear it any longer, and practically exclaimed “Where’s the beach?”, when casuarina trees popped up out of nowhere along the road shoulders, a definite sign that the beach was near, my mother assured me. And she was right, because after a bend, there was the beach. My father’s reaction: “it’s like Morib”. My mother’s response: “Morib 40 years ago”. We parked our cars, and I gleefully jumped out to take a few pictures. The tide was out, and the beach looked filthy. I could see some huge ships on the horizon, obscured by the haze. I can’t remember what Morib looked like, but it was a place to file away for later discovery.

My father and brother mooched around a few shacks by the beachfront. They bought some steamed peanuts, and pondered on whether to buy some crabs (they opted not to). At that point in time, it suddenly became overcast, and within a minute of getting into our cars, it began to rain.

After getting home, I did some research on the island. I discovered that Carey Island’s aboroginal community, known as the Mah Meri, are very well-known for their unique culture and way of life, and especially for their votive sculptures, fashioned from a kind of swamp hardwood known as “Nyireh Batu”. I found a website, Khong’s Walkwagon (he has a really nifty volkswagen!), which had a much better travelogue on the island than mine. It also has motivated me to spend more than just an afternoon on the island. There definitely will be a Carey Island Part 2. Stay tuned.

Night Adventures #2 – Sentul

In Travel on 30/09/2004 at 14:27

A sudden cancellation of a movie outing gave me time one Friday night free to wander around town one Friday evening. I ended up in Sentul, another of those northern parts I hardly know. Unlike other bits of north KL though, I do have some childhood memories of the area. My father used to take the whole family over to Sentul to get our clothes tailored at Menon Brothers, along one of those Jalan Unions (I’m not sure which one). We also used to get some really great Indian food just off Jalan Ipoh, after the Jalan Sentul turn off.

 

Recently, a friend had treated me to dinner in Sentul, specifically Sentul Raya Boulevard (above pic). As I was shooting, a man came up behind me, asking me why I was taking pictures. Apparently, lots of people had been taking pictures of Sentul Raya Boulevard that day. In any case, I was amazed at the extent of development going on (I always seem to be amazed at development outside areas I’m familiar with). Sentul is apparently set to be the Arts hub of the nation, what with YTL providing the Actors Studio with a huge new space there, and with the National Art Gallery and Istana Budaya so close by.

This notwithstanding, Sentul has maintained a lot of its charm. Right behind the new Sentul Raya Boulevard is a little temple (above left pic). When I was taking pictures, there were people worshipping by a tree right outside (right of pic). Sentul also is home to loads of churches (like the one in above right pic) and other forms of Christian mission, legacies of which include the Sentul convent and La Salle Sentul.

I also discovered a stretch which I might even dare call quietly elegant along Jalan Kovil Hilir. Along the initial stretch just off Jalan Sentul, there is a stretch of terraced single-storey houses. Right behind them are huge cranes in the midst of a large developing area (above pic). Further up, the road broadens and goes a little uphill (left pic below), but just turn right and you’ll find old interesting low-cost houses (right pic below).

If I’m not mistaken, Sentul was initially railway quarters. There is still a station (pictures below). The area is considered a poor area of town, with its complexes of low-cost flats (left pic). It’s also a haven for food , especially Indian food (being a predominantly Indian area). It really is a fascinating place, and this post certainly doesn’t do it justice. I have to go back during the day soon.

For The Tourist #2 – Dataran Merdeka

In Travel on 27/09/2004 at 22:05
Before Evensong recently, I decided to take a walk around Dataran Merdeka. It has been some years since I walked about this tourist spot with the tallest flagpole in the region (or possibly the world, but I lose track of the tallest biggest widest things we seem to build every year). 

Dataran Merdeka (or the Independence Square) has been in existence since Malaysia’s independence in 1957, but has gone through several facelifts, the most notable change being the erecting of the flagpole. It is flanked by the Royal Selangor Club (RSC) on the west, and across the road to the east are the Federal courts. On its north is the RSC field, on which cricket used to be played until about the 1980s. North of the field is St. Mary’s Cathedral, the mother Anglican church for the country, and where I worship (see pic below for view from the square looking north).

I was glad I decided to take a look-see, some things have changed since I last mooched about (which was probably before the great flood underneath the square). For one thing, the road right next to the platform has been tiled over, and is a pedestrian walkway now (which seems to make more sense). There is a heritage centre and a museum of natural history (both of which might have been there before – see right pic below – but I never noticed, which brings us back to my taking things for granted). I plan to drop in on both, and will do a little review on the blog soon. There is also a new library next to the heritage centre, on the south-west of the square (left pic below).

Everything else seemed to be the same. The good old fountain is still there (left pic). The RSC still looked good. It’s funny how the area behind the club, the side along Jalan Kuching, used to be notorious for its activities. I remember when I was about five or six, my parents used to make my brother and I turn the other way after Christmas service at midnight. Of course, when someone tells a child not to do something, they tend to go right ahead and do it. I got an eyeful of a lot!

 

I crossed the road over to the Federal Courts (pics above), where I was called to the Malaysian Bar. That was a nice day, the end of the pain and torture of being a pupil-in-chambers. Behind the Federal Court flows the Klang River. You can see Central Market (another huge tourist stop, left pic below) from there. If you face the other way, you can see the Sessions Courts (right pic below), and Masjid Jamek (Jamek Mosque), which also is a major LRT stop.

I crossed back and took a walk across the Klang River. There is a garden here (left pic below), which used to be much more dense, and much less well maintained. It used to be another den of notoriety. I even got mugged here by a drug addict in my late teens there. He claimed to have a knife in his pocket. It was unlikely that he did, but I was young and less brave. In recent years, the authorities have cleaned up the whole area, and to ward off anyone high on drugs, they have built a monster-like venus flytrap fountain (pic, right). Huge in scale, monstrous in design, it is sure to give any person nightmares, whether flying high as a kite or sober. Right next to the venus flytrap fountain garden are food stalls. Being a very necessary part of KL lifestyle, these are slightly more “upmarket”, with the trendy name of “Di Tebing” (loosely translated, “by the shore” -right pic below). There is a friendly old malay man who serves me great iced tea before church every Sunday.

I was late for church, but I had to stop for pictures of St. Mary’s. I have a fondness for this church, it was the one I was baptised in, and spent most of my church-going life in. It now is dwarfed by buildings surrounding it, and suffers from floods arising from the swelling waters of the Klang River. Service can be quite hard when there are festivals at the square. There is no way our little church’s PA system could ever match a hi-tech outdoor PA system. And when it rains, the roof sometimes leaks.

And yet, the wood is always shiny and varnished. The velvet on the kneelers are always bright, and lint-less. There are always flowers (unless it’s Lent), and the grounds are well-tended. My brother and I used to love playing in the grounds when we were younger. It seemed so vast, and we used to collect those little red seeds used for making little pillows for 5 stones. Although I don’t know too many congregation members, I secretly feel very much at home in this little cathedral. Despite its disadvantaged circumstances, this is the cathedral British royalty visit when they are here. It has a lot going for it.

The area is definitely worth paying a visit. At night, everything is quite brightly lit, and there usually are police and local authority officers patrolling. The main road, Jalan Raja, is usually shut during weekend nights, making the area a pedestrian mall. Unfortunately, there are quite a number of noisy motorcyclists about, although they refrain from racing until much later in the night.

Night Adventures #1 – Segambut

In Travel on 23/09/2004 at 23:31

Sometimes, the spirit and the flesh are both willing, but technology isn’t. A friend (C) and I decided to take a drive tonight around town. Due to the rain, we had to hole up in Petaling Jaya for awhile. The rain had done its usual; traffic was at a standstill, on all roads, and even worse at junctions and roundabouts.

After a fish curry dinner, C began to drive around aimlessly. We headed south-west towards Klang, then ended up making U-turn back towards Kuala Lumpur. The next thing we both knew, we were in the shadowy corners of Segambut. I was surprised at how the little roads in Segambut broadened into multi-lane dual-carriageway roads, then suddenly bottle-neck back into a narrow two lane road.

The picture on the right is what I had hoped to show this phenomenon. Unfortunately, I opted for the “sports scene” function, which made the cars turn out static, but the flash failed to work, leaving everything else to the viewer’s imagination. I guess this evening’s outing was as much an exercise in using my camera, as it was actually exploring. I discovered quickly that it wasn’t easy to take good pictures while looking for potentially good photo subjects.

Segambut is one of those areas I’m not familiar with at all. Whenever I end up in Segambut, I feel totally lost and alien. Historically, the area was a light industrial area, although the developing parts further out of town has turned residential. Its original industrial areas (right pic, above) are closer to town, along the Duta roundabout area and surroundings. Residential areas are sprouting all over the place (left pic, above), some glossy and new while others look a little knackered. We ended up in a new residential area (I can’t remember the name, because I was so busy trying to take decent pictures in a moving car). The neighbourhood reminded me of a younger and less dense Wangsa Maju. And it is one of the few areas where Rukun Tetangga (similar to Neighbourhood Watch) huts exist. We found a tae-kwondo class going on in one of them (left pic).

We drove around, ending up on Jalan Ipoh itself (right pic). This area never ceases to amaze me with the number of bridal shops. There’s even a Bridal Parade. There are a number of interesting little shopping complexes, looking relatively bright and new on Jalan Ipoh, like Wisma Mutiara (right next to “Kelab Goldhill” – looking surprisingly much higher class than “Club De Vegas” [!] on Jalan Imbi).

We stopped by some stalls for dessert, Loke Mei and some other very fattening deep fried chinese desert and cake. Right by the stalls was a building (later discovered to be “Sungai Mas”) with the word “FAG” in bright pink on its side. Interesting…

(picture taken by C)

I always enjoy a night out discovering, but I’m slightly disappointed with the photo results. We decided to call it a night after dessert. Northbound traffic out of town was at a standstill at 10.30pm. Yes, head home before traffic heading anywhere else decides to build up.

The Putra World Trade Centre

In Travel on 20/09/2004 at 01:24

Work took me to the Putra World Trade Centre recently. Since I had my camera with me, I thought why not make a little adventure of it. If memory serves me well, the Kuala Lumpur Putra World Trade Centre (PWTC) was built in the mid 1980s. It is on the fringes of Chow Kit (KL’s shady area), and is very close to Kenny Hills (or Bukit Tunku), one of the most expensive areas to live in. So, just down the road are destitute drug addicts, while right next to it is the Pan Pacific and Legend Hotel.

The PWTC apparently hosts over 1,000 events annually. It occupies 133,000 sq.ft, with one plenary hall, two multipurpose halls, three exhibition halls, seventeen meeting rooms, and VIP suites. Right opposite the PWTC is “The Mall”, and right next to the Mall is an LRT station (I think the stop is called “PWTC”). The building itself is a big block, with the tall UMNO building on top of it, and also a big hall (see pic above). So this sort of gives me the impression that it’s just two buildings on a hill, when in actual fact, the “hill” is in actual fact a building as well.

I reached there close to 10.30 in the morning. It was eerily quiet, unlike most of my visits there. The car park was semi full, and there wasn’t a soul about. I could hear the central air-conditioning engines humming, but aside from that, absolutely nothing – even though, I could see the traffic and crowded streets outside through the air shafts. The car park, on ground level, is wide and sprawling. As I had feared, I couldn’t find my car later when I was leaving.

In any case, the building itself was surprisingly quiet when I got in, despite there being one conference held, and another unrelated press preview going on. There were just a few workmen about, a few cleaners, and not many others. Surprisingly, I was told that this was the peak period for conferences; before the budget, and before the onset of the fasting month.

In my newfound spirit of adventure, I decided to suss the building out when I got my work sorted. It’s funny how life can sap out the sense of curiousity and adventure in me. I recall as a child how I would be running ahead to explore things, to the extent that I would be far off from my parents (who sometimes got frantic when they couldn’t find me – or vice-versa).

Anyway, I have to the PWTC a lot for work now, for conferences and things like that. But I remember coming here when the place was brand new and sparkling to watch a couple of concerts, and I was pleasantly surprised to find that the place has been well maintained (unlike many other endeavours I will not mention at this time). The white marble tiles are still relatively white. There were few visible cracks, and doors and exits all seem to work. I crossed over the Gombak River to a new exhibition area, and captured the shot below. Aside from the muddy drain water, and the murky hazy sky, I think this is a pretty good picture of KL.

 

Just past the exhibition, more construction is taking place. I’m not surprised, what with YTL’s developing Sentul into something spicier and upmarket, I can imagine a similar bid for Chow Kit.

I decided to walk up to the main UMNO building (adjacent to the PWTC, although I would call it part of the centre, since they’re both joined through massive corridors underneath). When I got to the top, I was surprised to see blood-red posters of our nation’s leaders (pic below). There was one for each, and this massive one for all. As usual, there were security guards and chauffers for VIPs lounging about and having cigarettes. It was a hot hot day.

I went back in, wishing I had the time to go through the exhibition celebrating UMNO’s many victories. But work (and a lunchtime swim) was waiting for me.

For The Tourist #1 – Jalan Alor

In Travel on 16/09/2004 at 14:43

Recently, a friend and I decided to have some Thai food. I know a pretty good Thai coffee shop in the Jalan Alor area, so we headed on down there one Saturday evening, with 70s disco hits booming from the car speakers. We parked behind the Pudu Police Station, along Jalan Galloway. As usual, there was a man waiting to collect money, a grand total of RM3. I asked for a student discount (well, I could be a student, you never know), and he told me that if I were to park across the street, it would cost RM5. So I reluctantly forked out the money, and we crossed Jalan Pudu. Safely, I might add.

We walked through the car parks along Jalan Tong Shin, and headed on to Tingkat Tong Shin, where the famous beef ball noodle store is. My friend (“Loki”) told me that right across the road from the beef ball noodle is a famous barbeque pork rice stall, which opens during lunch. I think I read about it in the newspaper recently. The stall-holder actually buys the pork, and barbeques it himself everyday. I bet he’s minting money…

Anyway, we headed on down Tingkat Tong Shin, with the refurbished houses-turned-cafes (pics above). This has to be one of KL’s nicest streets to walk along. It’s just great that we have actually done some nice refurbishment of old colonial building(which are not painted in pastel colours or salmon). The tall trees (which amazingly have not been chopped down), the old/new look of the area, and the massive looming buildings on the horizon,makes this street just so special. Furthermore, associations I never knew existed are set up here, like the Au Yong Family Association, the Foo Descendents Association and the Selangor Newspaper Vendors Association. Imagine that!

I stopped for awhile, and took a couple of snaps. La Bodega and the rest didn’t look too busy, but saying that, it was just past seven in the evening (I was told that it was quite busy later on in the evening by someone who was there).

We made a right, down on to Jalan Sahabat. We were both in good spirits, sightseeing in our own backyard makes you open your eyes to a lot of things you miss. And it also gave us a sense of adventure, which we might have lost when we began the mundane routine of worklife. The skyline along Jalan Sahabat was amazing, with the old terraced houses on the hill, and the KL Tower looming up in the twilight. There was a new condo at the end of the road, with an interesting banner below its tennis courts (pic, left).

We walked to the end of Jalan Sahabat, where there was a Chinese temple. I pulled out my camera, and was about to take a picture, when Loki pointed out a “church” right next to it. We climbed up to the “church”, which couldn’t possibly fit more than ten people at a time. It was a little white hut, with black crosses spray-painted all over the front. There was a few minutes of conjecture, “church” or “Christians paranoid of temple’s influence” or what? Anyone?

We continued on through an alley, and ended up on Changkat Bukit Bintang. There was some kind of event going on, “Music & Fashion @ Changkat Bukit Bintang” (pic, below left). The street was closed, with traffic cops barricading each end. Right in the middle was a stage, with a dance presentation (of sorts). Apparently, this was part of the KL August Festival. In any case, there weren’t many people around, with Hemingways, Frangipanni, Deutsches Bierhaus etc. all but empty (pic, below right). The cops, a handful of tourists and us were the only ones around. I’m sure things picked up later. Loki, who has been based in Singapore for awhile, didn’t know how “cool and happening” Changkat Bukit Bintang had become.

Since it was early, we decided to nip down to Low Yat Plaza to check out computer stuff and DVDs. This time it was my turn to be surprised at how busy Low Yat Plaza was. There was even a semblance of a street bazaar on the outside, and the roads were just so busy (pic, left). Things inside weren’t any different either. We checked out prizes for PDA covers (too expensive for me), and some DVDs (got me some Buffy!).

We headed back on to Changkat Bukit Bintang to the Thai coffee shop, and were soon digging in to an authentic (and cheap) Thai meal. Because it was on a slope, I could see things I had missed earlier. I saw the Africans bunched around, I saw people heading towards Bukit Bintang, and I saw people looking out through windows from those old shop lots. And it occurred to me that there are people who actually call these streets their neighbourhood. Girls were sitting outside on their balconies reading and talking (pic, right). Some were braiding other’s hair. Okay, I know, some of these girls might be in a profession of ill repute, but this place is still their home.

After dinner, totally stuffed, we headed down Jalan Alor (pic, left). We observed two African guys humourously victimising two Malay guys, who sped off on their little motorcycle. Loki said the Malay guys were cops. Isn’t that ironic? Along Jalan Alor, we experienced smells of delicious food (pity we were so stuffed). There were at least three ‘budget hotels’ (cheap comfortable rooms for RM45 per night, the banners stated). This was the time when I was most aware that I was carrying a digital camera, and trying to take photos. People were everywhere, and with the recent spate of reported snatch thefts, I am really thankful to God that I still have my camera.

In any case, we got back to the car, everything and everyone intact, and capped the evening with some American Chillis’ dessert.

Closing The Gates On Taman SA

In Travel on 12/09/2004 at 02:07

I recently was at Bangsar Shopping Centre (BSC) to get Bjork’s Medulla. When I discovered that it was shockingly still unavailable in Malaysia, I decided to take a drive through the residential area by BSC’s northern side, called Taman SA. When I turned round the corner of Jalan Menerung, I was surprised to find it the road barricaded, with a little security hut on the left, and security guards manning the blockade on the right.

What with the whole controversy in the local media about closed / gated communities, I decided to find out more. I parked my car, and went out to speak to the security guards. Right next to the barricade was a sign stating that there was “restricted access” to the neighbourhood. When I initially asked the guards how long the area had been closed off, they seemed a little bit defensive, saying that they were just doing what they were told to do. They then referred me to a registration book, where visitors of the neighbourhood’s residents had to sign in their particulars. A glance at the registration book revealed that the area had been shut off since August 2004.

According to the guards, there had been some break-ins and robberies in the neighbourhood. Furthermore, a corpse was apparently dumped in a ditch in the area. I asked the guards if Dewan Bandaraya Kuala Lumpur (the city’s local authority) or the police had given permission for, or had allowed, the barricade. They rolled their eyeballs, and told me that the police had advised them the night before (Sept 10) to remove the barrier, but the resident’s association head had instructed them to continue business as usual the following morning.

It was a bit inconvenient having the place blocked off just when I decided to go explore it. I have no issues with gated communities like Country Heights, Sierramas or Tropicana, which were gated communities from the outset. However, to close off a neighbourhood which was once “public” seems a bit irregular. What of those who used to go for an evening run there? Or those walking their dogs? Or just people like me who wanted to explore? It is fortunate for Taman SA residents that there is just one exit and entrance by road, or I could not imagine anyone being happy with their shutting off the area.

Of course, I do not blame them for their caution. Violence in the Klang Valley has escalated by leaps and bounds in the last few years. And Taman SA is a relatively secluded area. When I related this to my mother later in the evening, she told me that my aunt, who lives on the other side of Bukit Bandaraya, had a guard on her road as well. She told me that my aunt said the police apparently encourage residents to actively protect their neighbourhood (which conflicts a little with what the guards implied).

It is in an interesting conflict, the seemingly unilateral (and unpublicised) shutting off of a community, opposing the public’s right to venture on to land owned by the government, to whom they pay taxes.

(By the way, if the pictures appear unclear or grainy, it’s due to the haze)

Of Places Familiar – Mont Kiara

In Travel on 08/09/2004 at 16:23

I work in Mont Kiara, an upmarket area in the northern suburbs of Kuala Lumpur. There is the commercial hub, Plaza Mont Kiara, which is surrounded by swanky apartments and condo units, and flanked by two private schools. When I began to work here as a writer about a year and a half ago, I quickly discovered how convenient it is for me. Just fifteen minutes away from my home in Petaling Jaya, and just fifteen minutes away from the city, it has everything within easy reach, and on occasion, walking distance too.

I found I could get my haircut at the Indian barber at Plaza Mont Kiara, lunch is readily available everywhere. There is a motor workshop nearby for emergencies (I learnt this through experience, having a beat-up decade old Proton Saga). There is a gym with a pool, which I use frequently during the week. And with the new footpath into Desa Sri Hartamas, I get easy access to Burger King, stall food, and also the pet shop, where I get my dogs groomed. Very easy.

Saying this though, I can’t imagine its being a tourist destination. There really is little to offer culturally, since most of the retail outlets cater to the higher middle income bracket, and expatriate community. There is nothing traditional or cultural happening in Mont Kiara, unless you count the Sunrise Jazz Festival, and the flea market (no longer so-called, because it never really was a flea market – the place is too upmarket for second-hand goods to be sold!) on Thursdays and Sundays “cultural” (see pic above right).

I think the developers, Sunrise Berhad (or an associate company) had designed the neighbourhood to be “posh” though. Aside from the obvious frenchified “Mont” in its name, the location of the international schools, Mont Kiara’s feel and vibe comes across as being slightly contrived, dare I say, calculated. That notwithstanding, I am quite content to work in the fountain-sprayed environment of Plaza Mont Kiara. It is also a place I go to when I want to spend some time alone with a book, and a cup of coffee. And many of my friends come here to work in the coffee places in the area. It has that kind of tranquil atmosphere.

All this, of course, draws in quite an interesting crowd. Aside from the working expats (from Japanese to Middle Eastern to Americans), there is the usual bunch of international school kids (sometimes by the droves), as well as quite a lot of local eye candy. A friend who moved to Singapore used to despair at the state of Malaysian women, until he began to hang out at the local Starbucks. Then I began to receive quite a lot of text messages, expressing relief that there were some “hot chicks” in Kuala Lumpur after all.

Not all is well in paradise though. The new monolithic Penchala Link highway (see pic above right) has marred the poshness of Mont Kiara. The terraced highway cuts right across Taman Tun Dr. Ismail (another “posh” district) right over Mont Kiara to Jalan Duta. However, I find the sight of it pretty exciting, like a huge endless expanse of concrete leading to edge of imagination. Also, there are heaps of new developments and building erected every month, like the bright “Shoplex” in the picture above (left).

If I’m not mistaken, this whole area used to be palm oil plantations, which was developed (and still is being developed) by design to cater to the upwardly mobile community. The downside of the area is that it can get quite dusty, with all the construction going on. Unsurprisingly, right next to Mont Kiara is the neglected and less wealthy area, Segambut. I once got lost one evening while being adventurous, and took a turn I usually didn’t, and ended up somewhere in Segambut. The roads are dark and narrow, and houses look lean and quiet. It took me some time to find my way back to somewhere familiar, but I think I will go down there again one day. I’m sure there must be adventures to be had there.

The Valley Of Klang

In Travel on 25/08/2004 at 13:15

Cities have always thrilled me. There is always something beyond the vastness of a city, something hidden in deeper recesses. It’s like something you see in the corner of your eye, but when you turn to look, it’s usually gone. Cities are like that for me: a panoramic vista, with something not-quite-there-unless-you-look.

Throughout my late teens, and early twenties, I went adventuring throughout most of Europe, hunting for mysteries down the streets of Berlin, London, Paris, Madrid… More often than not, I discovered the quirks I was looking for, braving alleyways, going down dark roads on purpose. For sure, I went through the main streets as well, just to see what needs to be juxtaposed. In recent years, I have come to appreciate how much adventure can be had in the Klang Valley. Having been brought up here, I realise how much I have taken it for granted, and how much I have missed because of this.
Read the rest of this entry »